As I mentioned on Monday, May brought the highest numbers of visitors this site has seen so far.  I decided to take a look at what people were most interested in over the course of the month.

Tracking your stimulus check was the most popular article, there must be a lot of people waiting to get their rebate money.

Gas prices are obviously on everyone’s mind, the topics of riding the bus to save gas money, different ways to save gas money commuting to work, and the best gas credit cards were popular with readers as well.

The series on personal finance issues for college graduates has garnered alot of interest from former college students entering the working world for the first time this summer.

People are getting ready for their summer trips and have found the saving money on vacation series useful in making their preparations.  This one is only partially complete with several more articles on the topic coming up soon.

With high gas prices, people must be looking for more in home entertainment. Saving money on online movie rentals with a free trial of Blockbuster Total Access was another popular one for the month.

Here are some of the more popular articles from The Money Writers during the month of May:

• Investing in the Stock Market Over the Past 10 Years: How Did Dollar-Cost Averaging Fare?
• how to make money without a job and why you should
• Frugal Tips I Can’t (or Won’t) Do
• Save Money on Gas Tips from Consumer Reports
• The Future of Personal Finance Tools
• Is Investing In Rental Property A Good Move?
• Why your Retirement Account is NOT an Emergency Fund

After a little over a year of constant downturns in the economy and stock markets, some discussion is coming to light in terms of people reconsidering what retirement means, and how they are going to get there. I know I’ve seen this in my practice, as I’m encountering many more people who are approaching retirement in 10 years or less and they are seriously thinking about extending how long they work, or even changing their retirement plans.

It’s understandable that if you’re just a few years from retirement and you had a large stake in the stock market, the losses experienced this year are enough to rattle even investors who are typically risk adverse. But, what about the younger generation that typically reads this site? The bulk of readers here are in the 25-45 year old range, which puts a typical retirement at anywhere from 20-40 years away. With a longer time horizon, I wonder if the recent economic climate has forced younger people to begin thinking more critically about their retirement expectations.

Is retirement still too far off to really worry about at this point? Are you reconsidering how your investments for retirement are structured after what’s happened? Do you plan on working longer, or change your retirement goals?

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

Poll: Have Recent Economic Conditions Changed Your Expectations for Retirement?

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Funny stuff by the folks over at Salon.com:

Well, funny if it weren't so true!

The August 2008 issue of Consumer Reports — one of my favorite personal finance magazines — features two articles that may be of interest to readers of Get Rich Slowly. The first offers tips for cutting expenses. The second gives a brief overview of budgeting.

Cut your spending by $500 per month
The Consumer Reports Money Lab looked for easy ways for the average American to save money. They came up with six suggestions and estimated potential savings for the average consumer. Here are their suggestions (with links to relevant articles at GRS).

1. Find cheaper auto insurance. By shopping around, the average person can save $65 per month. Need help? Here are 10 expert tips for saving on car insurance.
2. Optimize your life insurance. Premiums have dropped in the past ten years, the article notes. It may be worth replacing an existing policy. Also, by adopting a healthier lifestyle, you can cut costs. Average savings? $110.
3. Shop smart for food. CR cites U.S. Department of Agriculture data indicating the average family of four can drop its grocery bill by nearly $200 per month though smarter shopping. We just discussed grocery shopping tips on Monday.
4. Stop paying bank fees. The average U.S. household pays more than $25 per month in bank fees. There’s no reason to do so. Learn how to avoid overdraft fees and get yourself a high-interest bank account.
5. Call up cell phone savings. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average family spends $90 on phone-related expenses. Consumer Reports suggests checking to be sure you’re not paying for too many minutes.
6. Pay off your credit card. If you can get out of debt, you’ll not only save on finance charges, but you’ll also free up the cash that was going to pay the principal. Estimated monthly savings: $65.

Consumer Reports also encourages readers to increase contributions to their 401(k) plans. This helps prepare for the future and reduces that tax bite today. You can read the entire article at the Consumer Reports web site.

Create a spending strategy
Last autumn, I shared my notion of a spending plan, which I called a “budget for non-budgeters”. Consumer Reports likes spending plans too:

That’s what a household budget really is — a plan to track your spending and keep it within boundaries. Done right, a budget lets you spend without guilt. Here we offer ways to make your budget — oops, spending plan — simple and painless.

Their advice will be familiar to long-time GRS readers:

• Set goals. I believe that the road to wealth is paved with goals. Consumer Reports believes that long-term goals help you achieve big things, while short-term goals keep you motivated.
• Track expenses. It doesn’t matter how you do it, but track your spending. You can use a notebook, computer software, or even online tools.
• Plan for surprises. If you haven’t already, start an emergency fund. Most experts advise saving three to six months of living expenses, but CR suggests a “personal escrow” approach instead.
• Set priorities. Know which bills get paid first. For most people, this means the big things like food and home. (If you pay yourself first, it may be your retirement.) Whatever’s left after your expenses is your discretionary money.

The full article includes tips on how to create a web-based spending plan. The rest of this month’s issue includes ratings of large kitchen appliances, tips on buying tickets to shows and ballgames, and a tests of two dozen running shoes. (They didn’t test the pair I bought last month, though.)

---
Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• The Consumer Reports Mother’s Day Gift Guide
• Credit Card Advice from Consumer Reports
• How to Drive a Great End-of-Summer New Car Deal
• 20 Free Ways to Save Energy
• Consumer Reports Auto Issue Round-Up: Top Picks for 2007

After debating with myself on whether to use the BS word in the title or not, I finally decided not to censor myself on my own blog and went ahead with it. Censoring the BS word on a BS topic is actually some BS in itself; and using BS instead of bullshit is also bullshit … so what gives.

Anyways, the point of discussion is that, recently, it has come to my attention that one of our “highly decorated” acquaintances might have misled a number of scholarship organisers with her “powerful” essays and personal statements. We (me and my wife) happened to figure this out over a dinner meeting when we heard of some extraordinary high-flying crap (unreasonably lofty ideals, fake “personal life experiences”, etc.) from this person. A few things just jumped out at us as pretty obvious discrepancies (when you have been through a similar experience, you can very easily tell when the other person is exaggerating/lying - sort of) and a few other odd things we figured out after pondering over the entire story all over again.

I was thinking over it for a while and then realized that she is just playing the scholarship system to her advantage. Almost every scholarship/award that I have seen in seven years of graduate school asked for an essay or a personal experience statement, or some document of that sort. Many of the scholarships/organizers specifically state (verbally or otherwise) that, generally, very similar academic profiles of graduate students, scholarship decisions will ultimately boil down to a contest between personal statements. “Powerful” personal statements will have a better chance of getting the scholarship.

Now, I haven’t really understood this obsession with “powerful” personal statements and essays .. and with preferences for people with “powerful life experiences”. Sounds very “Miss America” like. This obsession for larger-than-life idiocy encourages words over deeds, lofty ideas over achievable targets, and bullshit over plain old simple truth.

Why should something dramatic happen in your life to make you eligible for a scholarship? Why is it necessary to relate your success to obscure words that your mom/dad (or a dead relative) said 20 years ago? Why is it necessary to “boast” about your far-fetched “noble” intentions in future (which are not really “noble” the moment you start boasting about them)?

Interestingly enough, almost none of the scholarships will actually take the pains to verify any of your “personal” events. So whatever you throw at them will be accepted - and even glorified. So where is the motivation to be honest and straightforward about who you are, why you want the scholarship, and what you want to do with the money you will get from the award?

As educational expenses rise, we will probably see more such bullshit floating around in future.

I wonder what else we will do for money.

Is it too much to ask for a very little tiny bit of personal honor? Or is that some kind of bullshit too?

Fidelity offers Age-Based 529 investments. Just pick a year.

The best time to save for your children’s college tuition is when your child is born. A small investment now will help them cover their college costs in the future. Say you invest $10,000 when they’re born. Assuming a 12% annualized return, it will grow to about $80,000 by the time the kid’s 18 years old and ready for college. $10,000 investment to pay for $80,000 in school costs? Not a bad price to pay for college at all.

Watch out though: You don’t want a bear market to challenge your kid’s future. You’ll want to secure that fund as cash as the child gets older. Use an age-based 529 investment to save for college.

Age-Based 529 Plans automatically adjust from aggressive (mostly stock investments) to conservative (mostly bonds and cash) as the child comes closer to their project college years. All you have to do is pick a projected year and the fund will handle the rest. The downside is that you pay a bit more in management fees since it’s an actively managed funds. The upside is that you get to spend more of your time playing with your kid instead of balancing their investments.

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If you’ve purchased a used car from a dealership in the past few years, you’ve undoubtedly encountered the extended warranty option. To be clear, while most of these are described by the salesmen as warranties, most are actually service contracts. A warranty is built into the price of the vehicle, whereas a service contract costs extra and is purchased in addition to the vehicle itself. A warranty and service contract both generally achieve the same goal, just keep in mind that if you have to purchase it on top of the vehicle itself, it’s probably a service contract.

On the surface, the added protection of covering your vehicle for an extended amount of time seems like a good idea, but before you jump in, make sure you understand what you’re getting yourself into. These are products that are pushed because they make money for the dealer and salesperson. There are times when buying the service contract can be a great idea and save you money, but there are plenty of situations where it is completely unnecessary and will just end up costing you money. And worst of all, there are actually some companies that are little more than scams.

Consider Your Situation First

Before you decide on whether or not you could use an extended warranty or service contract, consider your situation. First, does the vehicle you’re intending to buy have an existing manufacturer’s warranty that will carry over to you? If so, how many miles or years are left before it expires? Many auto manufacturers are including longer warranties that in most cases are transferable. So, if you’re buying a car with a 70,000 mile existing warranty and it has 15,000 miles on it when you plan on buying it, that’s entirely different than buying the same car with 65,000 miles on it. In the first scenario, buying the extended warranty would be a bad idea with so much life left in the existing warranty, whereas the second scenario might point to an opportunity.

Consider the Cost

To be blunt, many of these service contracts are expensive. That doesn’t automatically mean they are all a rip off, but you do need to consider the likelihood of needing repairs, what those repairs would cost, and then determine if it makes sense. Depending on a number of factors such as what is covered (i.e. is it comprehensive, or just powertrain?), the deductible, and the length of contract, prices can vary from just a couple hundred dollars to a couple thousand dollars.

What you’re ultimately doing is placing a bet that you think your repair costs over the length of the contract will be more than you paid for the contract itself. For instance, if you paid $800 for coverage that will last you about two years, you have to ask yourself if there is a good chance that over the course of those two years you’ll need to have $800 or more worth of work done. If it isn’t very likely, you might as well save your money. But if you think that is clearly a possibility, it might make sense. It’s like buying insurance. You never know if you’re going to need it, and if you don’t use it, it feels like wasted money. But if you do need it, you’re sure glad you have it.

Other Benefits to Consider

Another thing to consider with these types of service contracts or warranties are the possible other benefits. Many will offer a free loaner car when you have to bring your vehicle in for service. That can be extremely helpful if you’re in a situation where you need a car or don’t have many options for sharing a ride. Some may also pay for the cost of a rental car as well. So, if you’re in the shop for a few days, this can be a nice benefit to have.

In addition to getting a spare car when yours is in for repairs, some contracts also provide free towing service in the event you break down. While this isn’t as big of a concern if you have AAA or some sort of roadside assistance, if you don’t have these, it can be a fantastic benefit. Again, it’s something you hope to never have to use, but if you do, you’ll be thankful you have it.

Dealership Repairs vs. Mechanic

One thing you need to consider is the cost difference between dealership repairs vs. having your local mechanic handle it. Obviously, the dealership is going to charge more for parts and labor. It’s what they do. And if you buy a service contract, that generally means you have to take it to the dealer, or at least an approved location in order to have the work covered. Of course, if you have the coverage, you’re not paying for it out of pocket, so you don’t think much of it.

But, that’s where you have to decide if it’s really a value or not. If you’re shelling out money for additional coverage, what would happen if you took your vehicle in to a local mechanic instead? You would have to pay out of pocket, but since you’d be paying less for the same repairs, it still might end up cheaper than buying the service contract to begin with.

My Personal Experience

I’ll give you an example with a personal experience I’ve had with used cars and service contracts. We have two used vehicles. In one case, it was clear that buying additional coverage would be a waste. With the other, it was a little bit harder of a decision. With the second car, it had 23,000 miles, and the manufacturer’s warranty only went to 30,000. Since I would be the one driving and I put on around 18,000 miles a year, the prospect of running out of coverage after just three months from the purchase was the first indication we might want to consider adding coverage.

Then we had to decide what type of coverage we wanted. Just powertrain coverage, or something more comprehensive that covered everything from a broken door latch to the electrical system. Looking back at my scenario, I do a lot of driving, on rough roads, and harsh winters. The chances are pretty good that there will be more than a couple repairs needed over the coming years, so comprehensive was looking like a better option, but that all depends on price.

After all said and done, we were able to get a 100,000 mile service contract for $1,500 with a $50 deductible. Sound expensive? Yep. But, that’s where you have to decide whether or not you think you’ll need $1,500 or more in repairs over the course of 77,000 miles, or in my case, a little over four years. If you’ve ever had to pay for car repairs out of your own pocket, you know just how fast things can add up. So, I felt it was a pretty safe bet given the situation.

Sure enough, after about 8 months, we had a problem with the transmission. Total bill? Around $1,200. A year later, a few more problems developed. The radio wasn’t working right, the seat didn’t recline properly, and just a few other little misc. problems. Another $500. And just a few weeks ago, took it in for a terrible clicking problem with the master relay, a rapidly deteriorating wheel bearing, a leaking axle seal, and a leaking exhaust manifold, for another $1,800.

Now, that $1,500 + $150 in deductibles doesn’t look so bad considering the $3,500 in repairs, and the loaner car for about the 10 total days it’s been in the shop. Could the work have been done cheaper than that by taking it somewhere other than a dealer? Probably. But I also would have been in a situation where I would have had to rent a car, and a small shop may have required more time to get the repairs done. Of course, we could have been “lucky” and the car could have never had any problems, and it would have felt like throwing money away. You just never know.

The Verdict?

You have to be very careful. Any dealer is going to try and sell you one of these. They will make it sound like a great deal, but it’s up to you to do the research to determine whether or not it’s really worth it. I’d say that for most people, given the cost, these warranties or service contracts aren’t going to be worth it. But, if you do the math and find out that it could be beneficial, then it might be worth considering. But don’t let the salesman bully you into a contract.

A better option for most people would be to set aside a “vehicle fund” to work as your own extended warranty. If you put $1,000 or $2,000 into a high-yield savings and sort of earmark that for unexpected vehicle repairs, your money can actually earn interest while it’s there and ready in the event you need it. While you might miss out on some of the added benefits of buying coverage, you’re in better shape if you’re fortunate enough to have a car that doesn’t need any, or only minor repairs.

The bottom line? Generally, these are unnecessary and costly. In some cases, if your situation warrants it and the price is right, it can be worthwhile. Just make sure you know what you need, how much it will cost, and what you’ll actually get out of it before rushing into a decision. And most of all, read all of the fine print! Make sure you know what’s covered, what isn’t covered, and what all of the limitations are. This is where a lot of inexpensive contracts snag you. They offer a good price, but you find that a lot of stuff isn’t really covered and you really are just throwing money away.

Is an Extended Warranty on a Used Car Worth It? The Good, Bad, and Ugly of These Service Contracts

If you could save a lot of money on gas by trying something new would the hassle of learning a new system be worth the cost savings to you?  I imagine several years ago most people would have answered no but with the high price of fuel everyone is looking for tips on how to save money on gas.

Save Money with Public Transportation
I spent many years riding the bus as part of my daily commute during which time I saved thousands of dollars not just on gas but also on parking and wear and tear on my car.  Having lived in Europe for several years, where everyone rides the bus or the train, I was very comfortable taking public transportation.

In major urban areas in the US people are using to hopping on a bus but throughout suburbia many people are clueless about the ins and outs of public transport.  They’ve never had to use it and can be a bit intimidated by learning the system.  Sure it sounds simple, just catch the bus, but it’s a whole new experience and people tend to shy away from things they’re no familiar with.

I’m always amazed at how many questions people have about riding the bus.  I’ll try and address some of those here and give some tips for the best experience riding the bus.

Learn How to Read a Bus Schedule
Here’s an example of a bus schedule from Oklahoma City.  Let’s say you lived there and wanted to commute from your home at 22^nd. & Vine into work at 10th & Walnut every day. 

First off you’d notice that the schedule doesn’t list 10th & Walnut as a stop, not too worry.  Most schedules don’t list every stop, there simply wouldn’t be enough room, so they only publish the major stops.  The bus may go right by 10th & Walnut and even if it doesn’t, it will probably get you to within a few blocks of there.

Many bus schedules, such as this one, will include a map of the route on the back or at the bottom so can get a feel for where the bus travels.  If you don’t understand the map you can just call the local metro office and they’ll help you out. 

So in this example, lets say you need to be at work by 8 AM.  You could catch the bus at NE 20th & Vine at 7:32 and get off at NE 8^th & Lincoln at 7:52.  Notice you’d want the Inbound schedule, the Outbound schedule will list the times you can catch the bus in the evening on the way home. 

Also note that you want to look at the Weekday section of the schedule.  Most weekend routes are different, which can mean different pickup times and fewer trips.

Take a Trial Run
The best way to get comfortable with a bus route is to ride it on a day when you’re not in a hurry and there is no schedule breathing down your neck.  Most of us make a few mistakes the first time we try something, making a mistake is a big deal if you’re in a hurry but if you have time to spare a mistake isn’t such a big deal so take a trial run of the bus.

Get to the bus stop 10 minutes early the first time to get a feel whether the bus runs early, on time, or late.  Drivers try and meet the schedule but my experience has been that buses can come up to 5 minutes before or 5 minutes after the listed time due to traffic and other variables.  You can also ask the people waiting for the bus whether it runs early, late, or right on time.

Get on the Right Bus
Most buses will have the route number and the final destination displayed in the window.  Make sure you check it before you get on, don’t assume because a bus is stopping for you that it’s the one you want.  Different routes can share the same stops, just check with the driver the first time you get on.  Tell them where you’re headed and ask if it’s the right bus.

It might sound silly but don’t be afraid to ask.  I’ve seen people who are obviously riding the bus for the first time, too intimidated by the new environment to ask questions.  They end up getting on the wrong bus and going to the wrong place simply because they didn’t take 30 seconds to ask before getting on.

Paying Your Bus Fare
If you’re going to commute regularly I’d recommend buying a buss pass.  You almost always save money with a pass as opposed to paying for each trip individually.  You might also be able to get cheaper fares through your job.  It’s also easier, you just get on and swipe your buss pass rather than having to fumble around with putting in money every time.  If you are going to pay with cash be aware many buses have automated ticket booths that only accept exact change.

Getting Off the Bus
Obviously you’ll want to take a schedule along with you the first time you ride the bus.  As you get closer to your destination start to pay attention to where you’re stopping and how close you are to where you want to get off.  One way to do it is tell another rider where you want to get off and ask them to let you know when its coming up.  The bus will either have a button to push or a cord to pull to let the driver know you want to get off at the next stop. Make sure you signal before you get to your stop or the driver might just drive on by.

If you have to switch busses as part of your commute, make sure to ask the bus driver for a transfer.  Most metro systems allow you to travel across multiple bus routes for one fare if they’re all part of one trip.  If you forget to ask for a transfer the driver of the next bus you get on will ask you to pay again.  If the whole reason you’re riding the bus is to save money you don’t want to have to pay twice for the ride.

Combining Driving and Riding
Of course riding the bus won’t eliminate the need for spending money on gas.  Some days you’ll have to drive in because you need to get there early, leave late, or maybe run errands after work.  Depending on where you live you may also have to drive partway into town to a park and ride, parking your car in a lot designed for commuters then catching the bus from there.

Even though you won’t eliminate your gas bill completely, riding public transportation can drastically cut the amount you spend on gas.  Combine that with strategies such as getting cashback with one of the best gas credit cards and gas rebates from grocery stores and the prices at the pump won’t take quite the same bite out of your paycheck.

She’ll want that stimulus check now! Is it possible to win a million dollars and still file for bankruptcy in 2 months? Apparently so!

How to become a millionaire? Well winning a game show is one way to do it. But then again, here’s this story of such a “millionaire”, which I can only describe as a tale of riches to rags, or maybe of rags to riches to rags.

There’s this woman — no other than a State School Superintendent — who won a million dollars on the game show “Are You Smarter Than A Fifth Grader”? She won the grand prize and pledged to donate it to various schools. But since her win 2 months ago, her husband’s home building company has failed, forcing her family to file for bankruptcy.

Click this link or the image to see this CNN video.

Goes to show you just how tenuous our financial situation can be at any point in time. For many people, it only takes a layoff, one bad business cycle, one bad trade in the stock market or one major illness to wipe out the family’s fortunes. I covered a lot of this when I wrote about the only 3 reasons why people go bankrupt.

The game show winner is still honoring her promise to gift her winnings to schools, with the funds sheltered in a “gift foundation” that is supposed to be protected from her creditors. Hopefully, her donation stays intact and untouched throughout bankruptcy proceedings.

Now what else caught my eye this week? Some more reads from the financial web:

• The Sun’s Financial Diary: FDIC Problem Bank List Now Includes 171 Banks
• Money Smart Life: Black Friday Deals or Cyber Monday Savings?
• My Dollar Plan: An Administrative Error Could Cost You Your Retirement
• Bible Money Matters: Christmas Is For Debt?
• The Wallet: What’s Your Black Friday Strategy?
• Personal Finance Analyst: Online Consumer Education and Rip Off Report
• Happy Rock: The “Paying Cash” Experience - 2 Months Later

Recent Carnivals

• Carnival of Personal Finance
• Festival of Stocks
• Carnival of Money Hacks
• Review Bloggers Carnival
• Total Mind and Body Fitness Blog Carnival
• Best of Me Symphony

This is a post from The Digerati Life.

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1. Bring your ads to the store. Many stores offer “lowest price” guarantees, but you need to bring proof to get your product for a lower price.

2. Ask for a gift receipt. If you’re buying somebody a present, this is a big deal. No gift receipt means people might get stuck with a gift they don’t want/need.

3. Early bird discounts. If you’re going to save “big” money, the only way you’re going to do it is to show up early. Usually stores have the huge deals 5am-11am or so.

4. Don’t feel obligated to buy something. If you get to the store too late and all the items you wanted are sold out, don’t feel the need to still buy something at a regular price. That’s the big “scam” of Black Friday. Stores have a handful of items at low prices, then want you to buy everything else at the regular price once they’ve got you in there.

- Edwin, CashTheChecks.com

Cost Segregation

One of the great advantages of commercial property investing is the tax benefits. The IRS has a program that allows the owners of apartment buildings or any other commercial property to increase the level of accelerated depreciation allowed in a tax year.

The tax savings may go back to property acquired after 1986, and they apply to new or future construction. They also extend to existing buildings under renovation, expansion and leasehold improvements, as well as to property about to be acquired. It can also be used for financial accounting, insurance and property tax purposes. The primary goal of a cost segregation study is to identify all construction-related costs that qualify for accelerated income tax depreciation. Cost segregation is not a tax shelter and it is not tax evasion.

Ask Yourself These Questions To Determine if You and Your Property Qualify:

Do you own a commercial property valued at $500,000 or more?

Do you pay federal income taxes?

Do you operate a corporation or entity that is for-profit?

Are you planning to the hold the property for more than one year?

To Obtain the Benefits of Cost Segregation You Must Get a Study

Your cost segregation study will analyze the taxes and costs incurred to buy, construct or renovate any kind of commercial real estate. You will need to procure the services of an expert or CPA to conduct the study. The CPA will dissect the costs to determine the accelerated income tax schedules. In order to meet the minimum qualifications of a cost segregation study, property owners must be taxpayers or intend to pay taxes. The cost of a study can range between $10,000 and $100.000.00 depending on the size and complexity of the project.

Advantages of Cost Segregation

• Considerable return on investments property that do not need to be insured.
• Increased tax deductions for depreciation and reduces taxable income.
• Opportunity to correct misclassified assets and claim “catch-up” tax deductions.
• Ability to achieve faster building and acquisition cost write offs.
• Reduction in insurance costs by identifying the components of the property that do not need to be insured.
• Determine personal property versus real property for write off versus capitalization prior to construction. This allows you to write off these items opposed to capitalizing the assets. This can provide you with huge tax benefits.
• Defers taxes on capital gain amounts until the property is sold.
• Reduces real estate property taxes.
• Reduces federal income tax and increases depreciation.

Advertisement: Real Estate Investing Forums Discuss real estate, network, or learn about investing on our forums!

This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Apartment Building Cost Segregation Analysis

With the whole mortgage meltdown and ensuing credit crisis, there is plenty of blame to go around. Even with shady lenders, complex loans, and loose lending requirements, most of this could have been avoided if people took the time to read, and more importantly, understand what they were signing. Most people simply don’t want to spend the time to sit there and read all of the fine print and those who do actually read it may not fully understand everything.

Don’t Be Embarrassed if You Don’t Understand

When someone explains something technical or difficult to grasp and then asks, “Do you understand?”, the response is typically “yes.” Either it is because you want to get through the process quickly, you don’t think it is very important, or you don’t want to feel embarrassed that you don’t understand a concept. This could end up being a costly mistake. If you don’t understand something or if you see conflicting information, it is in your best interest to stop and ask questions. It’s much easier to take a moment before signing to get clarification than to learn the hard way at some point in the future.

Information Included in the Fine Print

Most people are concerned with a few key areas of a loan such interest rate and length of the loan, but it is within the fine print of the promissory note or security agreement that contains the information that can really cost you money. The most common information included throughout the text will include:

• The promise you make to pay the lender a certain amount of money plus the agreed to interest rate.
• Whether the interest rate is fixed or variable — if variable, when does the rate change and by how much.
• The payment schedule.
• Charges for late payments.
• Any applicable grace period.
• If the loan can be paid off early and if any penalties are incurred for doing so.
• Whether or not security or collateral is required.
• Whether or not the loan can be extended.
• What happens if you default.
• What happens if you pay with a bad check.
• Can the lender take money from other accounts you may have with them to repay the loan.
• Who pays legal fees and collection costs.

Don’t Sign Anything Until You Completely Understand

While it pays to make sure you get a good interest rate with good terms, it is equally important to make sure you understand everything about the loan even if you don’t think it will ever apply to you. You have nobody to blame but yourself if you make a late payment and find out there is a $40 late fee. It would come as no surprise if you took the time to understand what you agreed to. In the event of a problem with your account, ignorance is not a defense. It may seem like a waste of time to spend an extra ten or fifteen minutes to read multiple pages of small text, but it could end up saving you money or problems somewhere down the line.

And finally, don’t feel pressured by the person sitting across the table who’s urging you to sign. Not everyone is out there trying to trick you into a shady loan, but you shouldn’t feel rushed if they are just trying to quickly get you through the process. They can wait, and you should take as much time as you need. If they brush off certain sections saying it isn’t important, just explain that you want to take a moment to look it over. A couple extra minutes will ensure that you aren’t missing some key terms on the loan and help you completely understand what to expect, and what the consequences will be if something goes wrong.

Read the Fine Print Before Signing Any Loan - You Might be Surprised at What’s in There