With the whole mortgage meltdown and ensuing credit crisis, there is plenty of blame to go around. Even with shady lenders, complex loans, and loose lending requirements, most of this could have been avoided if people took the time to read, and more importantly, understand what they were signing. Most people simply don’t want to spend the time to sit there and read all of the fine print and those who do actually read it may not fully understand everything.

Don’t Be Embarrassed if You Don’t Understand

When someone explains something technical or difficult to grasp and then asks, “Do you understand?”, the response is typically “yes.” Either it is because you want to get through the process quickly, you don’t think it is very important, or you don’t want to feel embarrassed that you don’t understand a concept. This could end up being a costly mistake. If you don’t understand something or if you see conflicting information, it is in your best interest to stop and ask questions. It’s much easier to take a moment before signing to get clarification than to learn the hard way at some point in the future.

Information Included in the Fine Print

Most people are concerned with a few key areas of a loan such interest rate and length of the loan, but it is within the fine print of the promissory note or security agreement that contains the information that can really cost you money. The most common information included throughout the text will include:

• The promise you make to pay the lender a certain amount of money plus the agreed to interest rate.
• Whether the interest rate is fixed or variable — if variable, when does the rate change and by how much.
• The payment schedule.
• Charges for late payments.
• Any applicable grace period.
• If the loan can be paid off early and if any penalties are incurred for doing so.
• Whether or not security or collateral is required.
• Whether or not the loan can be extended.
• What happens if you default.
• What happens if you pay with a bad check.
• Can the lender take money from other accounts you may have with them to repay the loan.
• Who pays legal fees and collection costs.

Don’t Sign Anything Until You Completely Understand

While it pays to make sure you get a good interest rate with good terms, it is equally important to make sure you understand everything about the loan even if you don’t think it will ever apply to you. You have nobody to blame but yourself if you make a late payment and find out there is a $40 late fee. It would come as no surprise if you took the time to understand what you agreed to. In the event of a problem with your account, ignorance is not a defense. It may seem like a waste of time to spend an extra ten or fifteen minutes to read multiple pages of small text, but it could end up saving you money or problems somewhere down the line.

And finally, don’t feel pressured by the person sitting across the table who’s urging you to sign. Not everyone is out there trying to trick you into a shady loan, but you shouldn’t feel rushed if they are just trying to quickly get you through the process. They can wait, and you should take as much time as you need. If they brush off certain sections saying it isn’t important, just explain that you want to take a moment to look it over. A couple extra minutes will ensure that you aren’t missing some key terms on the loan and help you completely understand what to expect, and what the consequences will be if something goes wrong.

Read the Fine Print Before Signing Any Loan - You Might be Surprised at What’s in There

On Thursday I’ll be interviewing personal finance columnist Scott Burns. Burns may be best-known for his “Couch Potato” investment portfolio. He’s also the brains behind Asset Builder and the co-author of the new book Spend ‘Til the End, which explores the notion of “consumption smoothing”, or how to maintain a stable standard of living throughout your life. If you have you have personal finance questions you’d like for me to ask Burns, please let me know.

Meanwhile, here are a few recent personal finance articles from around the web.

First, Flexo at Consumerism Commentary believes that the idea of getting rich slowly may be a fallacy. Or does he? In “7 Ways to Lose Your Money”, he takes issue with a recent MSN article that promises seven ways to get rich a little more quickly. The problem? Flexo points out that these methods can also lead to financial ruin.

Meanwhile, Five Cent Nickel notes that cheap is not necessarily frugal. Quality may cost more initially, but in the long term, it usually pays for itself. (But don’t confuse quality with “name-brand” — they’re not necessarily the same.)

Jim at Blueprint for Financial Prosperity recently had his home’s roof replaced, and in the process learned some lessons about finding contractors. One of his tips? It’s not all about price. Kris and I have learned this lesson, too, over fifteen years of homeownership. For us, it’s more important to find quality workers than cheap workers. It’s a balance.

Finally, Love Food Hate Waste recently shared 5 sure-fire ways to save money on your food bill. The average household with children in the U.K. throws away £610 in food every year. This article offers tips for buying and storing food sensibly.

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Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• Daily Links: PearBudget Edition
• Daily Links: E-Book Edition
• Money Hacks Now at Get Rich Slowly
• links for 2006-09-12
• Daily Roundup: Bringing Home the Bacon Edition

We’re nearly midway through December already. That means 2009 is just around the corner. In the spirit of the new year, I’d like to ask:

What are your 2009 Financial Goals?

Here are mine in order of importance:

1. MAX OUT my wife’s 401(k). We haven’t maxed out her 401(k) in years. The market’s down so it’s the PERFECT time to get back into the habit. The IRS raised the employee contribution limit to $16,500 for 2009. My wife gets paid twice a month so that means she will be contributing $687.50 per paycheck. Wowza!

On top of that, she’ll also get a generous employer-match of 75% of the first 6%, or 4.50%. The employer-match should easily put her over the $20,000 contribution mark for the year (and maybe even closer to $25,000 if we get profit-sharing).

2. Recommit to our budget. I know, I know,…we should already be doing this. However, I got kind of lazy and complacent and haven’t stuck to our budget. We make decent money so it’s really silly of us not to using our income wisely. We do save money each month but we could do a lot better with some discipline.

3. Continue building up our emergency fund. Our efund is nowhere near where I’d like it to be. So, the third goal for 2009 is to get it to $10,000.

Those are my financial goals. What are yours?

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Nowadays, the marketplace is rife with risk, so you may wonder whether it’s a good idea to launch a business during a downturn, especially with layoff numbers mounting daily. When is it ever the right time to start a business?

Starting a business during an economic crisis sounds absolutely crazy but let’s put aside our concerns of risk for the moment, and think about some of the advantages. If you are afraid of losing your job due to the economic meltdown, starting a new business may be the perfect antidote. No more bosses, no more pink slips, and no more backstabbing by your fellow workers !

Why Start A Business Today?

There are more than 27 million businesses in the U.S. with less than 500 employees, of which 20 million have no employees, according to the Small Business Administration as mentioned in this page.

With millions of businesses having less than 500 employees, a good chunk of the American population depend on these small businesses for their livelihood. That’s why the SBA (Small Business Administration) is offering funds to help those who have a good plan for starting a business now. They may be worth checking out; they may have some solutions for the budding entrepreneur.

Opening a business is an exhilarating and frightening experience. But think of the rewards; when everybody is hunkering down, you will be very well positioned to take advantage of the inevitable recovery. These ‘no-employee’ businesses are usually family affairs where everybody has a share of the pie, but a sizable portion is owned by independent professionals who work alone. Again, if you were contemplating opening your own business, now may be a good time to do it, especially if you’ve got the resources. Could you be rewarded for bucking the crowd (and the trends)?

Some Advantages To Starting A Business During A Downturn

Let’s consider some of the advantages of starting a business during slow economic conditions:

1. Space is cheaper. Finding an office, a warehouse or even store space is much easier and much cheaper. If I were a commercial real estate owner, I’d rather rent out my space for less than have no tenants at all.
2. Great deals available. Businesses going under have to get what they can for their furniture and electronics. Auctions may offer ridiculously low prices for items that you’ll need.
3. Cheaper employees. A well trained professional will gladly accept a cut in salary rather than face unemployment. Same with clerical workers.
4. Cheaper services. There are all kinds of service providers who have to lower their prices due to the lack of demand. Think of advertising specialists who can prepare your marketing campaign for much less than normal.
5. Less competition. While your competition is waiting out the storm, why not make yourself available, ready to offer people what they need? Even now, though they may be a little harder to find, there are always people in need of a service or product who are willing to pay (albeit possibly for less). Go and find them, don’t wait for them to find you.

Are You Ready For Entrepreneurship?

Everyone can become an entrepreneur, but not everyone can be successful at it. It’s great to envision such possibilities, but before I reel you in on this idea, let it be known that opening a business is not for everyone. The reality is this: not everybody may be qualified or prepared to start and run a business — and just like with the stock market, if you make big mistakes and are not sure about what you’re doing on your own, you can get hurt….badly. And in a downturn, financial wipeout scenarios are all the more common, and dramatic. So if you’re doing this, you MUST have a good plan, you MUST have done your homework, and in many cases, you’ll NEED access to cash.

Depending on the type of business you’re interested in launching, you could potentially face an enormous amount of risk. Plus, in today’s tight credit era, banks are reluctant to loan money, even to the well-qualified clients. So if you’re serious about your business idea, where can you turn? Well, you can approach people you know; start with your network. Or you could use some of your savings (gasp) or show your solid business plan to some of your wealthy friends (if you’ve got any). Some people I know have started their businesses with credit cards, but going down this path is not the most prudent way to go. In today’s era, it may very well be that you’ll have to bootstrap yourself using your own savings or you’ll need to consider the type of business that won’t require money upfront, such as a service-oriented venture.

Despite all the challenges, you may still find this to be your calling. If so, get creative. People still have to eat, buy clothes, and have fun. You can negotiate lower prices from your providers — they are anxious to sell their surplus. Drum up business by visiting churches (why not, the pastor may become your best salesman), schools, hospitals, clubs, and make them an offer they can’t resist. Note however, that this may not be the best way to promote your business .

Most of all, plan your business very carefully by analyzing the trends in your neck of the woods. Creating a niche has never been easier. But certainly, look before you leap and read our tips for small businesses. This article is about contrarian thinking, and contrarians are often vastly rewarded for their guts (no guts, no glory), patience and shrewdness. Whenever we contemplate a particular endeavor, we need to weigh risks vs rewards — the only sane way to really make a financial decision.

This is a post from The Digerati Life.

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Tomorrow is Independence Day in the United States, a time for friends and family to gather and enjoy the early summer. I’m taking a l-o-n-g weekend, and won’t return until Monday. If I’m lucky, I’ll get a chance to play in the sprinkler.

In the meantime, I thought it would be fun to devote a thread to financial success stories. People send me e-mail all the time to say how they’ve taken control of their personal finances. I love to read these tales, and I know that other people do, too. (We even have a section of the forums devoted to them.)

For example, here’s what one long-time reader wrote a few weeks ago:

I paid off a credit card today!  At times its balance had been as high as $12K, but with the severance pay from my old job, signing bonus from new job, and various other resources, I paid it off completely today.  

The next step is to move the existing balance on my other credit card (about $8K) onto the now-zeroed card at a low balance transfer rate, and then pay down that last balance. It feels really good to have this thing off my back after so long.

Do you have a financial success story to share? Big or small, it doesn’t matter. Tell us about it! You have all weekend to do so. Have a safe and happy fourth, everybody…

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Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

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• GRS Reader Success Stories
• Daily Roundup: Contest Edition
• When the Going Gets Tough, Get Back to the Basics

After debating with myself on whether to use the BS word in the title or not, I finally decided not to censor myself on my own blog and went ahead with it. Censoring the BS word on a BS topic is actually some BS in itself; and using BS instead of bullshit is also bullshit … so what gives.

Anyways, the point of discussion is that, recently, it has come to my attention that one of our “highly decorated” acquaintances might have misled a number of scholarship organisers with her “powerful” essays and personal statements. We (me and my wife) happened to figure this out over a dinner meeting when we heard of some extraordinary high-flying crap (unreasonably lofty ideals, fake “personal life experiences”, etc.) from this person. A few things just jumped out at us as pretty obvious discrepancies (when you have been through a similar experience, you can very easily tell when the other person is exaggerating/lying - sort of) and a few other odd things we figured out after pondering over the entire story all over again.

I was thinking over it for a while and then realized that she is just playing the scholarship system to her advantage. Almost every scholarship/award that I have seen in seven years of graduate school asked for an essay or a personal experience statement, or some document of that sort. Many of the scholarships/organizers specifically state (verbally or otherwise) that, generally, very similar academic profiles of graduate students, scholarship decisions will ultimately boil down to a contest between personal statements. “Powerful” personal statements will have a better chance of getting the scholarship.

Now, I haven’t really understood this obsession with “powerful” personal statements and essays .. and with preferences for people with “powerful life experiences”. Sounds very “Miss America” like. This obsession for larger-than-life idiocy encourages words over deeds, lofty ideas over achievable targets, and bullshit over plain old simple truth.

Why should something dramatic happen in your life to make you eligible for a scholarship? Why is it necessary to relate your success to obscure words that your mom/dad (or a dead relative) said 20 years ago? Why is it necessary to “boast” about your far-fetched “noble” intentions in future (which are not really “noble” the moment you start boasting about them)?

Interestingly enough, almost none of the scholarships will actually take the pains to verify any of your “personal” events. So whatever you throw at them will be accepted - and even glorified. So where is the motivation to be honest and straightforward about who you are, why you want the scholarship, and what you want to do with the money you will get from the award?

As educational expenses rise, we will probably see more such bullshit floating around in future.

I wonder what else we will do for money.

Is it too much to ask for a very little tiny bit of personal honor? Or is that some kind of bullshit too?

Failure was not an option. The government finally stepped in on Sunday and unveiled plans to take over troubled mortgage giants Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, putting to rest fears that the two firms would collapse and send the housing market into a death spiral.

The housing market breathed a sigh of relief – but no cheers from the stockholders of the two firms. Fannie Mae [FNM] was trading at around $7.00 towards the end of last week and immediately collapsed to about a buck on news of the announcement. As of close today it’s hovering around $0.74.

For investors Fannie and Freddie have seemed like a pretty safe play for years. Stodgy, even. A publically traded pseudo-government entity which was crucial to the U.S. economy and backed by government guarantees seemed like a pretty safe place to stash away some cash that you didn’t want invested in risky stuff; let the day-traders mess with the bio-techs and dot.coms.

But what a difference a week makes.

A lot of investors took a bath on this one. We’re still in the shadow of Enron, WorldCom, Quest, Tyco, and others – but I never cease to be amazed when I speak to folks who have large percentages of their net worth tied up in a single stock. Sometimes it’s because it’s a “safe bet”, or because they’re comfortable and haven’t bothered to rebalance. But most often it’s because they work for the company in question.

This isn’t smart behavior. Real estate investors understand that there is no reward without risk, but diversification is the way that smart, tactical investors hedge their bets. Anything else is just gambling.

Contrast this to the advice that millions of Americans swallow then they read what is undoubtedly the worst personal finance book ever: Robert Kiyosaki’s Rich Dad Poor Dad. Diversification, according to get-rich-guru Kiyosaki, is for suckers. “Put a lot of your eggs in a few baskets,” he exhorts. “Do not do what poor and middle class people do: put their few eggs in many baskets.” A balanced portfolio “…is not the way that successful investors play the game.” These are quotes from the book; I’m not making this stuff up. The biggest problem with Rich Dad Poor Dad is not that it’s filled with vague motivational psycho-babble; it’s that hidden in the self-help hucksterism there are gems like this that are actually dangerous.

Kiyosaki is undoubtedly a smart businessman and has made millions of dollars selling his books and courses, but I’d encourage his true believers out there to take a critical look at some of the ideas that he’s promoting.

Related:

• Why I don't like Rich Dad Poor Dad
• The Black Swan :: The highly improbable and real estate
• Another bailout on the horizon?  Fannie and Freddie

Kris and I went grocery shopping this weekend. We stopped at Bob’s Red Mill — a local health-food store — to use some “buy one, get one free” coupons. “You can get anything you want,” Kris told me, “except hot cereal.”

“Why can’t I get hot cereal?” I asked. “I love hot cereal.”

“I know,” Kris said. “But you buy it all the time. You buy it faster than you eat it. Just last week, you bought another box of that blueberry oatmeal from Trader Joe’s. You never remember what we have at home. You need to shop with a list.”

She has a point.

A shopping list is a useful way to remind yourself what you do and do not need to purchase. But most frugality experts emphasize shopping with a list because it prevents impulse purchases. Impulse purchases wreck grocery budgets. In Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping, Paco Underhill writes:

Supermarkets are places of high impulse buying for both sexes — fully 60 to 70 percent of purchases there were unplanned, grocery industry studies have shown us.

More than half of all grocery purchases are unplanned! No wonder creating and sticking to a list can bring down grocery costs.

But that’s not the only way to save money at the supermarket. Over the past two years, I’ve published a lot of tips for saving money on your grocery bill. Some of these have been obvious — others less so. All of them can help you save at the supermarket. Here are some of the best:

Make a list — and stick to it.

This is the cardinal rule of shopping. The list represents your grocery needs: the staples you?re out of, and the food you need for upcoming meals. When you stray from the list, you?re buying on impulse, and that?s how shopping trips get out of control. Sure, a magazine only costs $5, but if you spend an extra $5 every time you make a trip to the supermarket, you waste a lot of money.

Compare unit pricing.

The biggest package isn?t always the most cost-effective. Stores know that consumers want to buy in bulk, and so they mix it up: sometimes the bulk item is cheaper, sometimes it?s more expensive. The only way you can be sure is to take a calculator. Our grocery store posts unit pricing for most items, which makes comparisons easy.

Ditch the basket or cart.

If you’re dashing into the supermarket to pick up milk and bread, don’t use a basket. Baskets induce people to buy more. If you’re limited to what you can carry, you’re more likely to avoid impulse purchases. Only use a basket (or shopping cart) if it’s absolutely necessary.

Don’t examine things you don’t need.

The more you interact with something, the more likely you are to buy it, says Paco Underhill in Why We Buy: “Virtually all unplanned purchases…come as a result of the shopper seeing, touching, smelling, or tasting something that promises pleasure, if not total fulfillment.” Do you know why grocery stores place those displays in the aisles? To intentionally block traffic. They want to force you to stop, if only for a moment. It only takes a few seconds of idly staring at the Chips Ahoy! to convince you to buy them. Stay focused.

Live on the edge.

Health-conscious shoppers know that the perimeter of the store is where the good stuff is. The baked goods, dairy products, fresh meats, and fruits and vegetables are generally placed along the outside edge of the supermarket, while the processed stuff can be found up and down the aisles. But shopping the edges isn’t just healthier — it’s cheaper too. Stock up on the fresh food first, then venture to the middle of the store.

Discard brand loyalties.

Be willing to experiment. You may have a favorite brand of diced tomatoes, for example, but does it really matter? Go with what’s on sale for the lowest unit price. You may find you like the less expensive product just as well. If you try a cheaper brand and are disappointed, it’s okay to return to your regular brand.

Choose generic.

Better yet, try the store brand. Generic and store brand products are cheaper than their name-brand equivalents and are usually of similar quality. But do you know why you’re reluctant to try generics? The power of marketing. Most generics have unappealing packaging. If they cost less and taste the same, who cares?

Use coupons wisely.

Coupons really can save you money. But you have to know how to use them. Clip coupons only the things you need — staple foods and ingredients — not for processed junk food. Learn to use special coupons. Once each month, one local store sends us a “$10 off a $50 purchase coupon”. We know it’s coming, so we plan our trips around it.

Make one large trip instead of several small ones.

Each time you enter the grocery store is another chance to spend. By reducing the frequency of your trips, you’re not only avoiding temptation, but you’re also saving money on overhead (time and fuel).

Buy from the bulk bins.

Some stores offer bulk bins filled with baking ingredients, cereal, and spices. When you buy in bulk, you get just the amount you need, and you pay less. Much less. (One GRS reader recently shared how he saved over $150 by buying spices in bulk.)

Check your receipt.

Make sure your prices are scanned correctly. Make sure your coupons are scanned correctly. Sale items, especially, have a tendency to be in the computer wrong, and yet few people ever challenge the price at the register. You don?t need to hold up the line: simply watch the price of each item as it?s scanned. If you suspect an error, step to the side and check the receipt as the clerk begins the next order. If there?s a problem, politely point it out. It?s your money. Ask for it.

Shop alone.

In Why We Buy, the author notes that people tend to buy more when shopping in groups than when shopping alone. “But men are especially suggestible to the entreaties of children as well as eye-catching displays.” Kris complains that we always spend more on food when we shop together. She’s right. If possible, shop alone.

Use a grocery price book.

A grocery price book is an ongoing list of the items you most commonly purchase and how much you paid for them. This list allows you to detect price cycles, spot bargains, and plan your shopping trips for maximum savings. A price book allows you to practice strike-point shopping.

Shop on a full stomach.

Studies show that folks who shop when they?re hungry buy more. This is certainly true for me: If I go to the store for milk on a Sunday morning without eating breakfast, I?m likely to come home with donuts and orange juice and Lucky Charms, too.

Walk or bike.

In our recent discussion about how to pay yourself first, Ross Williams suggested another way to reduce impulse purchases. By walking or biking to the store, you can automatically limit your spending. “It’s amazing how focused you can be when you are limited to one shopping bag full of groceries,” he writes. “Once you are very conscious of each purchase, it seems to carry over even to the small items where space isn’t really an issue.”

Any of these tips can help a savvy shopper save money at the supermarket. But when combined to create a cohesive shopping philosophy, they have the power to slash your grocery budget significantly. I’m not promising that you’ll be able to feed yourself for $15 a week, but you might be able to save enough money pay down your debt or to jump-start your savings!

Here are some related articles:

• How to save hundreds by playing the drugstore game
• The lazy man’s guide to groceries on a budget
• Grocery store vs. farmers market: Which has the cheapest produce?

Kris requested I offer some final pointers for the gentlemen. “Check with your wife before you go shopping,” she says. “Check with your wife before you put anything into the cart. And remember: Just because you like a food doesn’t mean you need to buy it every time you go shopping.”

Bulk food photo by mattieb.

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Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• Use a Grocery Price Book to Slash Your Food Spending
• The Grocery Game
• How to Spend Less - Lessons From ‘Why We Buy’
• Daily Links: Money Saving Tips Edition
• Price vs. Ethics: Is the Best Price the Best Choice?

Essentially, Leasing is just an alternative way to finance a new vehicle. We know that when purchasing a new vehicle the down payment, sales tax and license fees are required to be paid up front. However when leasing a new vehicle you are required to pay only the first monthly payment, a security deposit (usually same as monthly payment), and the license fees. The sales tax (which is based on the capitalized value of the vehicle) is actually amortized over the term of the lease in most states. In other words, the taxes are included in the monthly payments.

Capitalized Cost

Essentially the capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the actual price you have agreed to pay for the vehicle.

Gross Capitalized Cost

The gross capitalized cost of a new vehicle includes the selling price of the vehicle (which is the capitalized cost plus acquisition fees, extended warranty, accident & health insurance, dealer title fee, payoff on your trade-in, credit life insurance, gap insurance and any other fees the dealer decides to charge you). Buyer beware; that most people really don't ever know what their capitalized cost is because it is buried within the gross capitalized cost and the dealer doesn't actually reveal this number unless he has to. Most car deals made at auto dealerships are negotiated on the basis of payment rather than price. This applies to both leasing and purchasing. Don't get caught in this trap! Make the dealer reveal the selling price for every payment offer he makes you!

Adjusted Capitalized Cost

The adjusted capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the gross capitalized cost minus (-) your down payment, net trade-in amount, rebates, license fees and taxes along with any other deductions given.

Depreciation/Residual

When purchasing a new vehicle your payments are based on the full value or selling price, plus extended warranty, tax & license, minus (-) rebate, down payment and net trade-in value. However, when you lease a vehicle your payments are based only on the "depreciation or your use" of the vehicle during the entire term of the lease. The depreciation is actually only a portion of the capitalized cost of the vehicle and is determined by the term of the lease, number of miles driven and condition of the vehicle at the end of the lease. The payments on a lease are based on the deprecation money factor (which is a form of interest rate) and the amortized taxes. Therefore, you can actually drive a more expensive vehicle with a lower payment if you lease. Please note that the depreciation is actually estimated and set at the inception of the lease.

The residual is the portion or balance of the adjusted capitalized cost after the deprecation has been deducted. The residual is just put aside in limbo until the end of the lease. The higher the residual - the lower your monthly payment. At the end of the lease you have two options. You can either turn the vehicle back into the bank or leasing company, or you can buy the vehicle outright for the residual balance. You can even refinance the residual. But keep in mind if you turn in the vehicle with more mileage than allowed on your contract, you will be charged any where from .12¢ to .25¢ for each extra mile. In an auto lease you are limited to a specific number of miles in your lease contact. The average would be from 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. You may drive any number of miles in any given year but you cannot exceed the number of allotted miles or you will be penalized. If you purchase the vehicle the charge for the extra mileage will normally be waved. Most banks and finance companies will allow you to add an extra 15,000 to 20,000 miles to your lease contract depending on the term of the lease. However, the cost of the extra miles will be added to your gross capitalization cost and your monthly payment will be increased accordingly.

Ownership

When you have entered into a lease contract you cannot terminate the lease or turn-in your vehicle prior to the ending date of the contract. If you do this the bank will report this as a voluntary repossession on your credit record. On an auto lease the vehicle is actually registered and titled to the bank or leasing company. Therefore you do not own the vehicle, the bank does. You get to use the vehicle and are legally responsible for the upkeep and maintenance. Please note, if you don't maintain the vehicle during the lease you will be penalized for all excessive wear-and-tear when you turn it in. Also, if you really needed to get out of your lease you can buy out of the lease if you can get the financing or you can get someone to take over your lease. Of course, they will have to qualify.

Vehicle Warranties

The average new car warranty is 36 months or 36000 miles, which ever comes first. It is not recommended that you enter into a 4, 5 or 6 year lease contract because they are not economical. Even with a four-year lease it is common for the residual to be higher than the actual value of the vehicle at the end of the lease which makes it very hard to refinance. If you are like a lot of people you can lease a new vehicle every 2 to 3 years and never have to buy an extended warranty. The only time it would be beneficial to buy an extended warranty is if you knew you were going to buy the vehicle outright at the end of the lease.

Gap Insurance

Gap Insurance is basically insurance coverage on the difference between the actual value of your vehicle and the balance you owe on the lease including the residual. This kind of protection is needed in case your vehicle is involved in an accident and is declared a total loss. Gap Insurance is important especially for people who lease vehicles. The lease on a vehicle is actually designed for the balance owed to be upside-down in relation to the actual value of the vehicle until approximately the end date of the lease term. At this time the residual should fall in line or be equal to the vehicle's actual value. Gap Insurance is good for purchase financing as well. The gap is not as large as in leasing, but you still stand the chance of having to put out a great deal of money.

Final Advice

Remember, there are two main factors you must consider when you are thinking about leasing an automobile. The first is how long you intend to keep the vehicle and the second is how many miles you travel annually. If you intend to keep the vehicle a maximum of three years and you only average 15,000 miles a year, then you should definitely consider leasing. If you want to keep the new vehicle for more than three years, you should consider purchasing.

When you lease a vehicle, you very rarely have to put any money down, so lease a new vehicle every two to three years and you won't owe any money on the old vehicle, plus you'll never have to buy an extended warranty. Also, you will have spent a ton of money less for each vehicle than if you had purchased them. If you want to keep a vehicle longer just buy it at the end of the lease.

Remember, don't let the dealer try to sell you on the basis of payments. Negotiate on the price only and when you have agreed on the price then tell them you have a trade-in. When you have agreed to your trade-in value then tell them you want to lease the new vehicle. Now you know what to do from here. Also, dealerships have a tendency to quote lease payments without the monthly tax. This makes a big difference in the monthly payments. If you don't control this you will be sadly surprised when you go into the finance manager to sign the paperwork. One more thing - when you are signing the lease contract, be sure to verify that the trade-in value you have agreed upon is actually deducted from the capitalized cost. Otherwise the dealer could wind up purchasing your trade for pennies and you would never know.

Visit My site http://www.autopurchasesecrets.com for more free information on the secrets the dealerships don't want you to know.

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Brad spent thirteen years in the Automobile business, specifically auto sales and worked for several Dealerships. He held positions from Retail Salesman up through New Car Manager and Fleet Manager. During this period Brad received an excellent education on what goes on inside the Automobile Dealerships. You can visit and communicate with Brad at his website http://www.autopurchasese

INDYMAC IS OFFICALLY CLOSED!!!

In the past minutes newswires around the country and world are now reporting that the Federal Government has shut down IndyMac Bank and has handed it to the FDIC (Federal Deposit Insurance Corp.) as conservator.

Couple the shut down with the Fannie Mae/Freddie Mac troubles, and we’re in for some really rocky waters next week. I’m willing to bet a lot of money that the announcement was held back from being made prior to the close of the stock market because of fears of a massive crash. Well . . . I think we’ll be seeing that happen this coming Monday!

Fasten your seat belts, people . . . we’re in for a ROCKY RIDE!

IndyMac Bank’s assets were seized by federal regulators on Friday after the mortgage lender succumbed to the pressures of tighter credit, tumbling home prices and rising foreclosures.

The bank is the largest regulated thrift to fail and the second largest financial institution to close in U.S. history, regulators said.

Yahoo Finance

In the biggest bank failure of the housing downturn to date, federal banking regulators today closed IndyMac Bank FSB, naming the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. as conservator.

The FDIC said it will transfer insured deposits and “substantially all the assets” of IndyMac Bank, to a newly created successor, IndyMac Federal Bank, which will be operated by the FDIC.

Insured depositors and borrowers will automatically become customers of IndyMac Federal, FSB and will continue to have uninterrupted customer service and access to their funds by ATM, debit cards and writing checks. Depositors of IndyMac Federal Bank FSB will have no access to online and phone banking services this weekend, but will regain access to them on Monday.

Inman News

IndyMac Bancorp Inc. became the second-biggest federally insured financial company to fail today after a run by depositors left the California mortgage lender short on cash.

The Pasadena, California-based bank specialized in so-called Alt-A mortgages, which didn’t require borrowers to provide documentation on their incomes. Its home state has been among the hardest hit by foreclosures.

Bloomberg

What’s next? Anyone?

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This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

BREAKING: IndyMac Bank is Shut Down and Taken Over by Feds

It's a rhetorical question, I think.  Or, maybe not.  If I have already decided the answer, does that make it rhetorical.  Because here's the answer:  absolutely not.

Several months ago, I wrote a post about the wonder juice, Mona Vie.  It's a juice made with acai berry and other exotic sounding things that you couldn't possibly grow yourself.  You see, you would have to get the magic seeds from the depths of the Brazillian rain forest.  Ever wonder why the most healthy things in the world only grow in the far reaches of Brazillian rain forests and Himalayan mountain tops?

Anyway, I analyzed the business plan offered to those wishing to be part of the Mona Vie pyramid.  Er, I mean, take advantage of the exciting business opportunity.  Looks to me like it is possible to make some money.  Of course, I don't wish to view all of my friends and family as sales prospects.  So, I guess I wouldn't be successful.

Not surprisingly, the comments were one of two things.  Either it was someone telling us all that Mona Vie cured their high blood pressure, insomnia, baldness, made them taller, grew back their amputated leg, etc.  The other type of comment was that Mona Vie made them broke, ruined their marraige, caused them to be impotent and friendless.  Tragic, really.

So, I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it was that same post that instigated my first bit of hate mail.  Here's the email that I found in my inbox this morning:

"It seems that before you question the business of Mona Vie that you would at least find out what pv means.  Hey, here's a concept why don't you drink it for a month and then make your claims.  How long do you have to take vitamins before feeling any difference?  Do vitamins help lower your blood pressure because that is what Mona Vie has done for my mother.  Don't ruin it for everyone else who can benefit from the nutritional value of Mona Vie."

It was sent from the catering department of a golf course.  I wonder if she's slipping some acai berries into the fruit tart.  Lucky golfers.

referral

Finance Findings is Binary Dollar’s periodic link dump.

• How We?re Rebalancing Our Investment Portfolio: Modifying Our Asset Allocation [Digerati Life]
• 10 Tips For Dealing With Car Salesmen to Make Sure You Don?t Get Hosed [Generation X Finance]
• Inflating Your Ebay Rating [Lazy Man and Money]
• Lifestyle Inflation - When Does It Become A Problem? [Tao]
• Colleges Sell Alumni Data for Extra Cash [Money Smart Life]
• Credit Inquiries: Hard Pull and Soft Pull [Sun’s Financial Diary]
• State and Federal Income Tax Arbitrage [Five Cent Nickel]
• Free Checking Isn?t Really Free [Blueprint]
• The Cost of Being Overweight [Free Money Finance]
• A Mortgage Is Still Debt That Needs To Be Reduced [Mighty Bargain Hunter]

Send your submissions for Finance Findings to henry@binarydollar.com.

Sponsor: Parlayer - Henry and Matt blog about sports and stuff.

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If you’re covered by a health plan, you’ve probably encountered the words deductible, co-pay, and co-insurance a number of times when examining your bills, paying your doctor for a visit, or simply looking at the benefits package from your employer. These terms can be a bit confusing, and with all of the limits, maximums, and different coverage options, it is important to understand what they mean so you can obtain the best coverage for the right price.

When looking at your health insurance options, it’s important to go beyond the premium. The premium is the amount you pay each paycheck or month just to have the coverage. Obviously, you want the lowest premium you can get for the coverage you want, but you really need to look beyond that. Saving $20 a month on your insurance premium may end up costing you hundreds of dollars in co-pays or out-of-pocket expenses. So, let’s take a look at how you can make sense of all these terms.

Defining the Terms

Deductible

This is probably the most straightforward, and easiest ways to change the premium on your policy. The deductible is the amount that you need to pay for a claim before the insurance kicks in. If you have a $50 deductible and you are billed for $500 in services, you’d need to pay $50 out of pocket before the remainder is sent off to the insurance company.

Obviously, the higher the deductible you choose, the lower your premium will be since you’ll be covering more of the expenses out of pocket. So, you have to be careful. If you choose a high deductible in an effort to keep premium costs down, a period of poor health or unexpected medical treatments could add up quickly.

Don’t forget the maximums. Deductibles usually have an annual maximum, for both individuals and families. When comparing plans or options within your plan, determine how likely it would be that you’d reach those maximums, and if two plans have different maximums, think about which one provides the best cost-to-benefit ratio.

Co-pay and Co-insurance

The co-pay is probably another common term you’ve heard, and have probably paid a number of times without thinking much of it. Co-pay and co-insurance are basically the same thing, but cover different items. In either case, this is the amount of money you have to pay for a claim or service rendered. The difference is that a co-pay is typically a flat dollar amount for a specific item such as an office visit, exam, or prescription. Co-insurance is typically based on a percentage. This means that you’re responsible for a certain percentage of a claim, and the insurance provider is responsible for the rest.

Again, when comparing plans, the co-pay amount or co-insurance percentage can play a big role in how much your premium is. A plan with an 80/20 co-insurance (insurance company pays 80%, you pay 20%) will have a higher premium than a 50/50 plan, and so on.

Compare All the Numbers

So, when you’re exploring your health insurance options, it pays to look at more than the premium. While the premium directly affects your bottom line, saving a few dollars on the premium could cost you much more in the long run, and paying a higher premium for coverage you might not need may also cost an unnecessary bundle.

This is especially important if you have a certain condition that requires specific tests or drugs, or if you are planning on having a baby, as the amount of coverage provided for these items may require digging a little deeper than glancing at your premium. So, take the time to completely understand your health benefits, and you can be sure that you’re getting as much coverage as you need, and paying no more than you have to.

Comparing Deductible, Co-Pay, and Co-insurance When Looking at Your Health Insurance Benefit Options

My wife has wanted to move into town for quite some time so that she can be a little closer to friends and to our other activities.  I’ve been reluctant to move for a few reasons.  First, I think if we bought now, it would be like trying to catch a falling knife.  Second, it would be a longer drive to work for me.  Third, I don’t like change.  (None of these are her fault. )

And just as much as I feel pressured when my wife tells me about a good house that’s come up for sale, she probably feels frustrated by my reluctance to take any serious action on it because “this is just the beginning of the downturn” and “there will be more, and better, deals later.”

Actually, regardless of how far I feel the housing market is going to go down, I don’t really know.  I can get warm fuzzies that it’s getting to be more of a buyer’s market, but I won’t really know until I start tracking home prices.  Tracking prices is pretty straightforward, and has some advantages:

• It’s easier to recognize a deal when it comes along.  There is a huge amount of information literally a mouse click away, and tracking the price of desirable houses over time shows clearly what these houses were being offered at.  Rather than sensing that a house is a good deal, I can see that it is.
• It’s active.  It’s searching with a purpose.  It’s still basically window shopping, but I know which stores I’m going to. 
• It’s focused.  We’re looking for a house to move into.  This narrows our search and makes it more time-effective.

Here’s how we’re going about it now:

1. I signed up for an account at Realtor.com.  This allows me to save searches — and have daily or weekly e-mails sent to me — filtered by ZIP code, price, number of bedrooms, etc.
2. Since my wife is pickier (!) she chose the acceptable candidates among the few dozen houses that met the search criteria that Realtor.com allowed.  We could have fewer results to go through if we filtered by square footage, but not all of the listings include a square footage.  So, we pile through some more listings but turn up a few more candidates.  We eliminate most split foyers since she really doesn’t like those.
3. We build up a spreadsheet with the following columns:  ZIP Code, Address (to identify the house), Subdivision, Bedrooms, Bathrooms, Square Footage, Basement (no, yes, or split level), Garage (no, one-car, or two-car), and Asking Price.  We make one row per house, and add columns at the end to track the asking price over time.  We also list the houses that meet the search criteria but don’t meet our criteria so that we don’t have to re-visit those listings each week.  The columns are the criteria that are important to us; if you do this, you may have other columns you want to consider.
4. Houses keep getting prices added as long as they’re listed.  If they’re taken off, then we keep them to see if they come back on again.
5. Later we may add houses listed for auction or on other services, since some sellers are going the route of national real estate listing without the commissions.

Here are some of the measurements that can be done from these numbers:

• Number of listings.  The number of listings can fluctuate with the seasons (winter is slower).  If prices are going down for similar properties, or if the prices for properties we’re following are going down, then an increase in the number of listings could be good, as it means people are coming to their senses and trying to sell for what they can get.
• Time on the market.  We’ve gotten a few new listings, so we can see how long they stay on the market.  Knowing this would help us should we want to make an offer.  If the house has been on for a good long time, we can offer more aggressively (lower).
• Price per square foot.  This is a rough measure but a useful one.  If we really can buy more house for our money, we should see a reduction in the price per square foot.

The nice thing about this method is that it’s free.  Once we get the hang of this and get closer to making a decision we may sign up for www.RealtyTrac.com to get a handle on foreclosed and bank-owned properties.  We’ll probably pull the trigger on this when we are in a better position to make offers.

Tracking prices takes a little time but I’m sure this will help us to make a wise decision when we decide to look in earnest.