If you’re covered by a health plan, you’ve probably encountered the words deductible, co-pay, and co-insurance a number of times when examining your bills, paying your doctor for a visit, or simply looking at the benefits package from your employer. These terms can be a bit confusing, and with all of the limits, maximums, and different coverage options, it is important to understand what they mean so you can obtain the best coverage for the right price.

When looking at your health insurance options, it’s important to go beyond the premium. The premium is the amount you pay each paycheck or month just to have the coverage. Obviously, you want the lowest premium you can get for the coverage you want, but you really need to look beyond that. Saving $20 a month on your insurance premium may end up costing you hundreds of dollars in co-pays or out-of-pocket expenses. So, let’s take a look at how you can make sense of all these terms.

Defining the Terms

Deductible

This is probably the most straightforward, and easiest ways to change the premium on your policy. The deductible is the amount that you need to pay for a claim before the insurance kicks in. If you have a $50 deductible and you are billed for $500 in services, you’d need to pay $50 out of pocket before the remainder is sent off to the insurance company.

Obviously, the higher the deductible you choose, the lower your premium will be since you’ll be covering more of the expenses out of pocket. So, you have to be careful. If you choose a high deductible in an effort to keep premium costs down, a period of poor health or unexpected medical treatments could add up quickly.

Don’t forget the maximums. Deductibles usually have an annual maximum, for both individuals and families. When comparing plans or options within your plan, determine how likely it would be that you’d reach those maximums, and if two plans have different maximums, think about which one provides the best cost-to-benefit ratio.

Co-pay and Co-insurance

The co-pay is probably another common term you’ve heard, and have probably paid a number of times without thinking much of it. Co-pay and co-insurance are basically the same thing, but cover different items. In either case, this is the amount of money you have to pay for a claim or service rendered. The difference is that a co-pay is typically a flat dollar amount for a specific item such as an office visit, exam, or prescription. Co-insurance is typically based on a percentage. This means that you’re responsible for a certain percentage of a claim, and the insurance provider is responsible for the rest.

Again, when comparing plans, the co-pay amount or co-insurance percentage can play a big role in how much your premium is. A plan with an 80/20 co-insurance (insurance company pays 80%, you pay 20%) will have a higher premium than a 50/50 plan, and so on.

Compare All the Numbers

So, when you’re exploring your health insurance options, it pays to look at more than the premium. While the premium directly affects your bottom line, saving a few dollars on the premium could cost you much more in the long run, and paying a higher premium for coverage you might not need may also cost an unnecessary bundle.

This is especially important if you have a certain condition that requires specific tests or drugs, or if you are planning on having a baby, as the amount of coverage provided for these items may require digging a little deeper than glancing at your premium. So, take the time to completely understand your health benefits, and you can be sure that you’re getting as much coverage as you need, and paying no more than you have to.

Comparing Deductible, Co-Pay, and Co-insurance When Looking at Your Health Insurance Benefit Options

Geezeo joins the ranks of Mint.com, NetworthIQ.com, and Wesabe.com as a social personal finance site. The USP (unique selling point) of the site is their mobile accessibility.

It works like this:

Henry’s walking down the street. He stops and wonders if he’s got enough for a Big Mac. He sends a text message to the ether and waits. Moments later a text message comes back with all of my account balances that he setup at the website. Welp. Looks like Henry will have to go another day without food.

It’s targeting students or recent graduates for their service but anyone can use it. They target them because they’re more “connected”. It’s also US-only. Sorry Canada. They have compatibility with 6000+ institutions.

Here are a couple of improvements I would make:

1. Instead of texting the word “geezeo” to get current account balances, make it a common word that I can enter without switching to “abc” mode.
2. Instead of texting the word “geezeo update” to update my balances, it should already be updated when you retrieve your current account balances (see item 1).  Why would anyone want non-updated information?  Deprecate this.
3. Send a pie chart or graph or something via MMS if possible.

There are more things but here’s the one sentence summary: “Geezeo tracks your money automatically and there’s also discussion boards as well.”

Is it useful?  Sure.  Consistent awareness of your financial situation is very important for building wealth or getting out of debt.

Will I use it?  Probably not.  Calculating my net worth at the end of the month is good enough for me.

-h

PS - Sorry about the absence.  I was doing pull-ups this entire time.

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By all accounts it seems the banking lobby will get everything they’ve been ask for from Congress over the past decade and in do so may legislate mortgage brokers out of existence.

A little history lesson is in order to understand all the political and media spin designed to sway their and public opinion away from mortgage brokers the banking industry orchestrated for the last 10 plus years.

During the 70’s and early 80’s, banks dominated originations carving out a whopping 80% of the retail loan applications. Brokers quickly picked up the slack and by the early 90’s the numbers reversed. The market, especially real estate investors, liked the idea of a personal mortgage broker who understood their goals scouring the landscape for the best products and rates.

Banks have never been know for the best customer service or pricing and the public punished them by fleeing to the broker community. During this time brokers enjoyed about 75% of all originations leaving the crumbs for the banks.

They didn’t take that lying down. The quickly got their lobbyists working on legislation that passed in 1999 to poison the market against broker by demanding brokers show their “yield spread premium” income while the banks were allowed to hide their own. The thought was the public upon seeing this often times enormous “profit” that was heretofore hidden would put brokers in a bad light with consumers and they would come running back to the banks.

It didn’t happen.

As it turns out consumer either didn’t know or didn’t care. Some critics ( myself included) would say the brokers decided one “dirty trick” deserved another and devised ways of obfuscating the YSP. After all banks were getting away with setting up an un-level playing field in the first place so they could claim they were just “evening the score”.

Undaunted in their pursuit of the killing off their competition, many believe the banks decided upon a “scorched earth” plan to rid themselves of retail mortgage competition once and for all.

The Plan was one they pulled from the S&L playbook a decade earlier. Give the mortgage brokers just enough rope to hang themselves just like the Savings and Loans did.

Remember the Savings and Loan crisis of the late 80’s?

Banks wanted the S&L’s out of the way back then too. When a few greedy large S&L’s decided they wanted “deregulation” so they could make commercial loans it was the banking lobby who helped them get it.

At the time it seemed like “strange bedfellows”, but it only took a few years to see the banking industry genius behind their “assistance. They knew the S&L’s were unprepared to thwart their own greed and would create a “banking and real estate crash” lawmakers and the public would rightfully lay at their doorstep.

All the banks had to do this time around was find an equally stupid idea, attach a lot of money to it, and let the brokers commit a little “banker-assisted” suicide.

Enter the subprime loan.

Bankers priced them, marketed them, and feed them to a stupid, greedy bunch who cobbled them down with out the knowledge they’d just been had.

It worked.

Lawmakers and the public are clearly laying the current real estate and banking debacle at the doorstep of mortgage brokers. Legislation will pass making mortgage brokers all but extinct.

It worked so well that the banks may have succeeded in taking down not only the brokers but the mechanism that put them in business in the first place…the GSEs…Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac.

On Friday there were cries to bailout the GSEs since they too got caught in the bankers web of greed. The infection of subprime losses it seems put both GSEs on tilt. With them out of the way, the broker have no hope of staging a comeback since it’s Fannie and Freddie’s pathway to the money markets that give brokers something to sell.

The banker planted subprime virus not only killed brokers and the GSEs, but will likely kill the real estate industry and economy for the next few years too.

But when the dust settles a few years from now, every one will go to a bank to get a mortgage because that is all that is left.

Mission Accomplished!

If investors thought getting a loan was hard before, just wait. You ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

Advertisement: Payday Loans Online from the leader in online cash advances since 2003.

This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Are Mortgage Brokers An Endangered Species?

1. Bring your ads to the store. Many stores offer “lowest price” guarantees, but you need to bring proof to get your product for a lower price.

2. Ask for a gift receipt. If you’re buying somebody a present, this is a big deal. No gift receipt means people might get stuck with a gift they don’t want/need.

3. Early bird discounts. If you’re going to save “big” money, the only way you’re going to do it is to show up early. Usually stores have the huge deals 5am-11am or so.

4. Don’t feel obligated to buy something. If you get to the store too late and all the items you wanted are sold out, don’t feel the need to still buy something at a regular price. That’s the big “scam” of Black Friday. Stores have a handful of items at low prices, then want you to buy everything else at the regular price once they’ve got you in there.

- Edwin, CashTheChecks.com

After debating with myself on whether to use the BS word in the title or not, I finally decided not to censor myself on my own blog and went ahead with it. Censoring the BS word on a BS topic is actually some BS in itself; and using BS instead of bullshit is also bullshit … so what gives.

Anyways, the point of discussion is that, recently, it has come to my attention that one of our “highly decorated” acquaintances might have misled a number of scholarship organisers with her “powerful” essays and personal statements. We (me and my wife) happened to figure this out over a dinner meeting when we heard of some extraordinary high-flying crap (unreasonably lofty ideals, fake “personal life experiences”, etc.) from this person. A few things just jumped out at us as pretty obvious discrepancies (when you have been through a similar experience, you can very easily tell when the other person is exaggerating/lying - sort of) and a few other odd things we figured out after pondering over the entire story all over again.

I was thinking over it for a while and then realized that she is just playing the scholarship system to her advantage. Almost every scholarship/award that I have seen in seven years of graduate school asked for an essay or a personal experience statement, or some document of that sort. Many of the scholarships/organizers specifically state (verbally or otherwise) that, generally, very similar academic profiles of graduate students, scholarship decisions will ultimately boil down to a contest between personal statements. “Powerful” personal statements will have a better chance of getting the scholarship.

Now, I haven’t really understood this obsession with “powerful” personal statements and essays .. and with preferences for people with “powerful life experiences”. Sounds very “Miss America” like. This obsession for larger-than-life idiocy encourages words over deeds, lofty ideas over achievable targets, and bullshit over plain old simple truth.

Why should something dramatic happen in your life to make you eligible for a scholarship? Why is it necessary to relate your success to obscure words that your mom/dad (or a dead relative) said 20 years ago? Why is it necessary to “boast” about your far-fetched “noble” intentions in future (which are not really “noble” the moment you start boasting about them)?

Interestingly enough, almost none of the scholarships will actually take the pains to verify any of your “personal” events. So whatever you throw at them will be accepted - and even glorified. So where is the motivation to be honest and straightforward about who you are, why you want the scholarship, and what you want to do with the money you will get from the award?

As educational expenses rise, we will probably see more such bullshit floating around in future.

I wonder what else we will do for money.

Is it too much to ask for a very little tiny bit of personal honor? Or is that some kind of bullshit too?

Some people like change, other people don’t.  You could argue that change is distracting and slows you down but you can also argue that without change we’d all still be living in caves.

Personally change makes me nervous but I know that it’s necessary for growth.  I’ve been working on a few things related to this site for a while now that I’m getting ready to roll out.  I’ll let you know more once change is imminent.  Until then, what are a few things you’d like to see changed about this site? Please leave your thoughts in the comments.

One more thing to cover.  I’ve been meaning to highlight some more money articles over the last few days but hadn’t gotten around to it since I’ve been working on “the changes”.  Here are some articles you might want to check out.

– The Sun talks about a new rule for online real estate brokers

– The Lazy Man reviews the Amazon Kindle: Buy or Not?

– GenX Finance looks at the cost of a family cookout

-Free Money Finance takes a look at an  Investment Portfolio Using Only Three Index Funds

-No Credit Needed gives us 10 Steps For Getting Back On Track

– Five Cent Nickel covers SmartMoney’s Best and Worst Brokers,as did Blueprint for Financial Prosperity, SmartMoney’s 2008 Best Discount Brokers

This is not a political blog, but perhaps I am a bit cranky after losing electricity and water for 5 days, so I will let this one slip by.

So here goes:

Image source: http://codenameblogtastica.blogspot.com/

…. he killed a helicopter with a car, and then he walked bare-foot on broken glass, and then he fired a few people, and then he suspended whatever that was going on and proceeded to Capitol Hill to beat the crap out of bad dudes and to rescue the economy.

Oh wait… it’s McClane not McCain you idiot. Oops! it’s probably the uncanny similarity between the looks of Mr. Willis and Mr. McClane Mr. McCain that confused me.

I don’t mean any disrespect, but I had to get this out because I actually had a dream of John McCain hanging “suspended” upside down in New York’s Central Park right above a huge pile of money (that looked like it was about $700 billion). I woke up a little scared and then realized that it’s because I read about David Blaine’s stunt before going to sleep last night - while I was being constantly bombarded by television commentary on McCain’s suspension of his campaign (or whatever - didn’t look much of a campaign anyways) and the $700 billion bailout.

You can imagine the kind of maverick-ish impact Mr. McClane Mr. McCain is having on me.

Anyways, with that out of the way, there is something else I need to say. It has recently come to my attention that some people don’t really know how many zeroes are there in a billion! That calls for a little bit of elaboration on the numbers you might hear in the next few months.

$700 billion = $700,000,000,000

300 million = 300,000,000 (as per Google search, the actual number is close to 301,139,947 - go figure what this number is)

Now, $700,000,000,000/300,000,000 = $2333.33 per person

As per 2006 tax figures, there were 135,660,228 tax returns filed.

Now, $700,000,000,000/135,660,228 = $5159.95 per tax return

Some other numbers to put things into perspective.

For the year 2007, AIG CEO’s (Martin Sullivan) monetary compensation was $13.9 million ($13.9 million = $13,900,000)

Earlier this year, most people I know received economic stimulus payments that ranged between $600 and $1200

On Thursday I’ll be interviewing personal finance columnist Scott Burns. Burns may be best-known for his “Couch Potato” investment portfolio. He’s also the brains behind Asset Builder and the co-author of the new book Spend ‘Til the End, which explores the notion of “consumption smoothing”, or how to maintain a stable standard of living throughout your life. If you have you have personal finance questions you’d like for me to ask Burns, please let me know.

Meanwhile, here are a few recent personal finance articles from around the web.

First, Flexo at Consumerism Commentary believes that the idea of getting rich slowly may be a fallacy. Or does he? In “7 Ways to Lose Your Money”, he takes issue with a recent MSN article that promises seven ways to get rich a little more quickly. The problem? Flexo points out that these methods can also lead to financial ruin.

Meanwhile, Five Cent Nickel notes that cheap is not necessarily frugal. Quality may cost more initially, but in the long term, it usually pays for itself. (But don’t confuse quality with “name-brand” — they’re not necessarily the same.)

Jim at Blueprint for Financial Prosperity recently had his home’s roof replaced, and in the process learned some lessons about finding contractors. One of his tips? It’s not all about price. Kris and I have learned this lesson, too, over fifteen years of homeownership. For us, it’s more important to find quality workers than cheap workers. It’s a balance.

Finally, Love Food Hate Waste recently shared 5 sure-fire ways to save money on your food bill. The average household with children in the U.K. throws away £610 in food every year. This article offers tips for buying and storing food sensibly.

---
Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• Daily Links: PearBudget Edition
• Daily Links: E-Book Edition
• Money Hacks Now at Get Rich Slowly
• links for 2006-09-12
• Daily Roundup: Bringing Home the Bacon Edition

Live Search Cash Back is a new Microsoft initiative that is supposed to provide a rebate to consumers for items found via the Microsoft Live search functionality and purchased online.

The word on the street says this is Microsoft’s attempt to compete with Google in the online search market.  The concept is that in return for being listed in Microsoft’s search results, merchants have to offer cash back to consumers instead of paying Microsoft for placement.  Microsoft doesn’t make any money off of the transaction but their hope is that more users will start using Live Search instead of competitors such as Google.

Shopping Comparison Features
 Always looking to save a few bucks, I poked around the Live Search cash back interface to see if it would be useful for me.  I’m in the market for some new jogging shoes so I typed in “nike mens running shoes”. Unfortunately, the search interface is lacking basic functionality that all Web users have come to expect.  For example:

• You can’t order search results by price, seller reputation, or product rating
• You can’t specify a price range for the product
• Default 16 items shown per page. You can’t opt to see more items on one page
• You can’t choose whether to see a list vs more detailed view of results

Retailer Options
Once I scrolled through 16 pages of results to find the lowest price shoe, it only showed me results from two different online stores.  I guess one of the drawbacks of only including retailers that offer cash back is that your comparison is limited to the number of retailers that participate in the program.  How do I know that there aren’t other merchants that offer the same shoe online for a lower price?  They may not offer cash back but the shoe may be cheaper in the first place, saving the hassle of the rebate all together.

Rebate Hassles
Once I chose the store with the lowest price and best rebate I clicked through the “Go To Store” button.  I was taken to the merchant page where I could complete the transaction.  You aren’t given the discounted price at checkout, first the retailer has to report the sale to Microsoft.  Here’s the description of the cash back process from Microsoft’s terms & conditions:

“Within seven days after a qualifying purchase is reported to us, we will list the purchase in your account with a status of “pending.” The purchase will stay in pending status for a period of 60 days to account for returns, refunds, fraud and other processing issues. After this point, if the purchase is eligible for awards, it will be marked as “available” in your account and the associated awards will be eligible for redemption as described below. You must ensure that we properly post awards to your account. If you believe that you have earned awards that are not posted to your account, we will not consider posting them to your account unless you contact us within six months after the date of the associated purchase. We may require reasonable documentation to support your claim.”

Sounds more like hassling with a rebate than a cash back program to me.  The money may show up in your account but if it doesn’t you have to do the work of following up for months afterwards to make sure you get your cash back.  Similar to a rebate, you’re paying tax on the full purchase price, even though you might get cash back down the road.  I say might because Microsoft has a list of reasons that disqualify you from cash back:

“You will not earn cash back awards on purchases where (a) you open the store’s web site in a different web browser; (b) your browser is not configured to accept cookies; (c) the purchase is not completed in the same web browsing session (not to exceed 24 hours) initiated by clicking on the eligible advertisement or listing; (d) the order is later cancelled or the goods or services are later returned; (e) the store does not report the purchase to Microsoft; (f) the goods or services are acquired for resale or other business purposes; or (g) you also use a separate discount or coupon.”

A little bit further in the terms and conditions there is more language that could foreshadow difficulty claiming cash back.

“There may be additional limitations on purchases on certain merchant sites, and those limitations will be disclosed on the merchant site. Your participation in the Live Search cashback service on such merchant sites will be subject to these terms and conditions as well as any additional ones disclosed on the merchant site. In the event of a conflict between any of these terms and conditions and those disclosed on the merchant site, the ones disclosed on the merchant site will apply and control.”

Live Search Summary
The limited shopping comparison features, limited retailer options, and the whole lengthy rebate process are enough to discourage me from trying the Live Search Cashback for now.   The final deciding factor for me is that you have to sign up for a Windows Live ID in order to participate in the cashback program.  I have enough user id’s already, I don’t need anymore. 

For now I’ll continue to use Google web search and Google product search when I’m shopping for items online.  I’ll just keep my eyes open for deals and sales and get my discounts that way rather than go through the whole Live Search cashback ordeal.  Hopefully, Microsoft will enhance their search functionality, add more retailers, and make the cashback process less worrisome. Until then, I’ll rely on Google’s expertise to help me find the best deals.

I guess by now nobody cares if I am around … so this would be just to motivate myself to write a little more.

Looks like the site was down for a couple of months after some screwup with Wordpress/Hostmonster/Upgrade/That-Kind-of-Crap; so it took quite some efforts to get it back on track. Now, it looks all messed up so it will be a while before it looks pretty again.

Hoping to see some old friends again.

Umbrella insurance is a type of insurance that provides extra protection beyond your auto and homeowners insurance. Let’s say that a tree on your property falls and completely destroys a neighbor’s house. You get sued and are ordered to pay $500,000 in damages, but your insurance will only cover $300,000. If you don’t have umbrella insurance, you’re going to have to cover that additional $200k out of your own pocket. Unless you like giving away a couple hundred thousand dollars (if you do, give me a call), you’re probably going to wish you had umbrella insurance. For around two or three hundred dollars a year, you can get an umbrella policy that will provide you with up to $1 million of umbrella coverage.

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A recent study found that having more money doesn’t necessarily make you happy. This may put to rest the question of whether money buys happiness.

- Edwin, CashTheChecks.com

“It takes as much energy to wish as it does to plan.”
- Eleanor Roosevelt

People wish a lot, but do they plan just as much? Set small financial goals, make them attainable and stick to them. Don’t set a goal like “This year I’ll get my act together.” Set a goal such as: “This year, I’m going to put $100 of every paycheck into my savings account.” That is a realistic goal. Setting short-term realistic goals is good because it gives you confidence every time you reach them. That confidence gives you the determination to do it again the next paycheck.

Let’s do some quick math..

$100 every 2 weeks in a month is:$200
$200 a month one in a year is: $2,400
Plus $100 in interest earned: $2,500

This means that if you save up just $100 from every check you can take you and your family on a vacation every single year. The only thing left is the hard part, sticking to your goal.

- Edwin, CashTheChecks.com

If you’ve purchased a used car from a dealership in the past few years, you’ve undoubtedly encountered the extended warranty option. To be clear, while most of these are described by the salesmen as warranties, most are actually service contracts. A warranty is built into the price of the vehicle, whereas a service contract costs extra and is purchased in addition to the vehicle itself. A warranty and service contract both generally achieve the same goal, just keep in mind that if you have to purchase it on top of the vehicle itself, it’s probably a service contract.

On the surface, the added protection of covering your vehicle for an extended amount of time seems like a good idea, but before you jump in, make sure you understand what you’re getting yourself into. These are products that are pushed because they make money for the dealer and salesperson. There are times when buying the service contract can be a great idea and save you money, but there are plenty of situations where it is completely unnecessary and will just end up costing you money. And worst of all, there are actually some companies that are little more than scams.

Consider Your Situation First

Before you decide on whether or not you could use an extended warranty or service contract, consider your situation. First, does the vehicle you’re intending to buy have an existing manufacturer’s warranty that will carry over to you? If so, how many miles or years are left before it expires? Many auto manufacturers are including longer warranties that in most cases are transferable. So, if you’re buying a car with a 70,000 mile existing warranty and it has 15,000 miles on it when you plan on buying it, that’s entirely different than buying the same car with 65,000 miles on it. In the first scenario, buying the extended warranty would be a bad idea with so much life left in the existing warranty, whereas the second scenario might point to an opportunity.

Consider the Cost

To be blunt, many of these service contracts are expensive. That doesn’t automatically mean they are all a rip off, but you do need to consider the likelihood of needing repairs, what those repairs would cost, and then determine if it makes sense. Depending on a number of factors such as what is covered (i.e. is it comprehensive, or just powertrain?), the deductible, and the length of contract, prices can vary from just a couple hundred dollars to a couple thousand dollars.

What you’re ultimately doing is placing a bet that you think your repair costs over the length of the contract will be more than you paid for the contract itself. For instance, if you paid $800 for coverage that will last you about two years, you have to ask yourself if there is a good chance that over the course of those two years you’ll need to have $800 or more worth of work done. If it isn’t very likely, you might as well save your money. But if you think that is clearly a possibility, it might make sense. It’s like buying insurance. You never know if you’re going to need it, and if you don’t use it, it feels like wasted money. But if you do need it, you’re sure glad you have it.

Other Benefits to Consider

Another thing to consider with these types of service contracts or warranties are the possible other benefits. Many will offer a free loaner car when you have to bring your vehicle in for service. That can be extremely helpful if you’re in a situation where you need a car or don’t have many options for sharing a ride. Some may also pay for the cost of a rental car as well. So, if you’re in the shop for a few days, this can be a nice benefit to have.

In addition to getting a spare car when yours is in for repairs, some contracts also provide free towing service in the event you break down. While this isn’t as big of a concern if you have AAA or some sort of roadside assistance, if you don’t have these, it can be a fantastic benefit. Again, it’s something you hope to never have to use, but if you do, you’ll be thankful you have it.

Dealership Repairs vs. Mechanic

One thing you need to consider is the cost difference between dealership repairs vs. having your local mechanic handle it. Obviously, the dealership is going to charge more for parts and labor. It’s what they do. And if you buy a service contract, that generally means you have to take it to the dealer, or at least an approved location in order to have the work covered. Of course, if you have the coverage, you’re not paying for it out of pocket, so you don’t think much of it.

But, that’s where you have to decide if it’s really a value or not. If you’re shelling out money for additional coverage, what would happen if you took your vehicle in to a local mechanic instead? You would have to pay out of pocket, but since you’d be paying less for the same repairs, it still might end up cheaper than buying the service contract to begin with.

My Personal Experience

I’ll give you an example with a personal experience I’ve had with used cars and service contracts. We have two used vehicles. In one case, it was clear that buying additional coverage would be a waste. With the other, it was a little bit harder of a decision. With the second car, it had 23,000 miles, and the manufacturer’s warranty only went to 30,000. Since I would be the one driving and I put on around 18,000 miles a year, the prospect of running out of coverage after just three months from the purchase was the first indication we might want to consider adding coverage.

Then we had to decide what type of coverage we wanted. Just powertrain coverage, or something more comprehensive that covered everything from a broken door latch to the electrical system. Looking back at my scenario, I do a lot of driving, on rough roads, and harsh winters. The chances are pretty good that there will be more than a couple repairs needed over the coming years, so comprehensive was looking like a better option, but that all depends on price.

After all said and done, we were able to get a 100,000 mile service contract for $1,500 with a $50 deductible. Sound expensive? Yep. But, that’s where you have to decide whether or not you think you’ll need $1,500 or more in repairs over the course of 77,000 miles, or in my case, a little over four years. If you’ve ever had to pay for car repairs out of your own pocket, you know just how fast things can add up. So, I felt it was a pretty safe bet given the situation.

Sure enough, after about 8 months, we had a problem with the transmission. Total bill? Around $1,200. A year later, a few more problems developed. The radio wasn’t working right, the seat didn’t recline properly, and just a few other little misc. problems. Another $500. And just a few weeks ago, took it in for a terrible clicking problem with the master relay, a rapidly deteriorating wheel bearing, a leaking axle seal, and a leaking exhaust manifold, for another $1,800.

Now, that $1,500 + $150 in deductibles doesn’t look so bad considering the $3,500 in repairs, and the loaner car for about the 10 total days it’s been in the shop. Could the work have been done cheaper than that by taking it somewhere other than a dealer? Probably. But I also would have been in a situation where I would have had to rent a car, and a small shop may have required more time to get the repairs done. Of course, we could have been “lucky” and the car could have never had any problems, and it would have felt like throwing money away. You just never know.

The Verdict?

You have to be very careful. Any dealer is going to try and sell you one of these. They will make it sound like a great deal, but it’s up to you to do the research to determine whether or not it’s really worth it. I’d say that for most people, given the cost, these warranties or service contracts aren’t going to be worth it. But, if you do the math and find out that it could be beneficial, then it might be worth considering. But don’t let the salesman bully you into a contract.

A better option for most people would be to set aside a “vehicle fund” to work as your own extended warranty. If you put $1,000 or $2,000 into a high-yield savings and sort of earmark that for unexpected vehicle repairs, your money can actually earn interest while it’s there and ready in the event you need it. While you might miss out on some of the added benefits of buying coverage, you’re in better shape if you’re fortunate enough to have a car that doesn’t need any, or only minor repairs.

The bottom line? Generally, these are unnecessary and costly. In some cases, if your situation warrants it and the price is right, it can be worthwhile. Just make sure you know what you need, how much it will cost, and what you’ll actually get out of it before rushing into a decision. And most of all, read all of the fine print! Make sure you know what’s covered, what isn’t covered, and what all of the limitations are. This is where a lot of inexpensive contracts snag you. They offer a good price, but you find that a lot of stuff isn’t really covered and you really are just throwing money away.

Is an Extended Warranty on a Used Car Worth It? The Good, Bad, and Ugly of These Service Contracts

Since reading some comments on my last post, I had been thinking about what this whole deal with “personal finance” is about; is it about making the most amount of money? or is it about saving the most amount of money? or is it about spending the least amount of money? or is it about reducing stress due to money matters? or is it about this obscure concept called “financial freedom”?

The more I think about it, the less specific I get about possible “correct” answers to that question. In fact, looking back at my life, it seems that at different times, a different answer suited me depending on my financial and personal situation at that time.

What came out of this thought process was the realization that personal finance is not just about “maximizing money” - as I used to think earlier - and like most people probably think about it.

It’s not about maximizing. It’s about optimizing.

Given a financial situation, personal finance is about making the best of that situation. Sometimes it means trying to make as much money as you can, and at other times it means trying to make your money work to make you more efficient by reducing your stress, and at some other times it means that you save every penny to make sure that your children don’t inherit your burden of debt.

There is nothing wrong in trying to “maximize money”, but it is important to realize that, depending on your personal situation, there are costs (in terms of stress and time) associated with trying to do that.

Examples are numerous (but vague and difficult to explain) in this area, but a simple one would be to think of a job in which you are paid overtime. Every extra hour you work might mean that you will become richer than the previous hour, but it does not mean that you would be stress-free - or that you would be able to devote enough time to your family. If you overdo it, it wouldn’t be too hard to make yourself and your family feel miserable even with the extra money you earn.

Working your ass off for a few extra bucks might be a good idea when you are a bachelor with hardly any cares in the world, but if you are a family man, then you might be better off by working a little less in lieu of spending a little more time with your family. Now, just because you gave up that little extra money to spend time with your family or to reduce your stress, it does not mean that you are careless or frivolous with your personal finances. In other words, just because you chase every penny, it does not mean that you are an epitome of financially astute people.

In general, for the sake of the betterment of the whole universe and your own self, try optimizing your money instead of maximizing it. It also helps to reevaluate our understanding of “personal finance” in perspective of our changing personal situation and revise our money-chasing efforts accordingly.

Duh!