The month of May brought the largest number of visitors to date for Money Smart Life!  Many of those visitors came from sites in the the Money Writers and Money Blog networks whom you are familiar with via my weekly mentions.

I also wanted to say thanks to 10 other personal finance sites that sent over the most visitors by recommending an article on Money Smart Life.  I’ve listed each site and a recent article you might find interesting:

US News World Report (Kimberly Palmer) – Six Ways to Save Money on Vacation

MSN Money Blog (Donna Freedman) – Why is it so Easy to Throw Things Away?

The Simple Dollar – Financial Independence as a Goal

Frugal Dad – Used Car Buying for Teenagers

My Two Dollars – 29 Free or Low Cost Ways To Save Energy & Money

Frugal for Life – Slowing Down Takes Time

Not Made of Money – Four Tips to Saving Money on Home Improvement

Money Under 30 – How I Organize My Financial Records

Moolamy – Carnival of Personal Finance – Family Edition

Frugal Law Student – Save Time & Money by Working Out

If you place a charge of $5,000 on your credit card and only make the minimum payment each month, the chart above shows you how long it will take you to finally pay it off and how much interest you’ll end up paying.

- Edwin, CashTheChecks.com

Essentially, Leasing is just an alternative way to finance a new vehicle. We know that when purchasing a new vehicle the down payment, sales tax and license fees are required to be paid up front. However when leasing a new vehicle you are required to pay only the first monthly payment, a security deposit (usually same as monthly payment), and the license fees. The sales tax (which is based on the capitalized value of the vehicle) is actually amortized over the term of the lease in most states. In other words, the taxes are included in the monthly payments.

Capitalized Cost

Essentially the capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the actual price you have agreed to pay for the vehicle.

Gross Capitalized Cost

The gross capitalized cost of a new vehicle includes the selling price of the vehicle (which is the capitalized cost plus acquisition fees, extended warranty, accident & health insurance, dealer title fee, payoff on your trade-in, credit life insurance, gap insurance and any other fees the dealer decides to charge you). Buyer beware; that most people really don't ever know what their capitalized cost is because it is buried within the gross capitalized cost and the dealer doesn't actually reveal this number unless he has to. Most car deals made at auto dealerships are negotiated on the basis of payment rather than price. This applies to both leasing and purchasing. Don't get caught in this trap! Make the dealer reveal the selling price for every payment offer he makes you!

Adjusted Capitalized Cost

The adjusted capitalized cost of a new vehicle is the gross capitalized cost minus (-) your down payment, net trade-in amount, rebates, license fees and taxes along with any other deductions given.

Depreciation/Residual

When purchasing a new vehicle your payments are based on the full value or selling price, plus extended warranty, tax & license, minus (-) rebate, down payment and net trade-in value. However, when you lease a vehicle your payments are based only on the "depreciation or your use" of the vehicle during the entire term of the lease. The depreciation is actually only a portion of the capitalized cost of the vehicle and is determined by the term of the lease, number of miles driven and condition of the vehicle at the end of the lease. The payments on a lease are based on the deprecation money factor (which is a form of interest rate) and the amortized taxes. Therefore, you can actually drive a more expensive vehicle with a lower payment if you lease. Please note that the depreciation is actually estimated and set at the inception of the lease.

The residual is the portion or balance of the adjusted capitalized cost after the deprecation has been deducted. The residual is just put aside in limbo until the end of the lease. The higher the residual - the lower your monthly payment. At the end of the lease you have two options. You can either turn the vehicle back into the bank or leasing company, or you can buy the vehicle outright for the residual balance. You can even refinance the residual. But keep in mind if you turn in the vehicle with more mileage than allowed on your contract, you will be charged any where from .12¢ to .25¢ for each extra mile. In an auto lease you are limited to a specific number of miles in your lease contact. The average would be from 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. You may drive any number of miles in any given year but you cannot exceed the number of allotted miles or you will be penalized. If you purchase the vehicle the charge for the extra mileage will normally be waved. Most banks and finance companies will allow you to add an extra 15,000 to 20,000 miles to your lease contract depending on the term of the lease. However, the cost of the extra miles will be added to your gross capitalization cost and your monthly payment will be increased accordingly.

Ownership

When you have entered into a lease contract you cannot terminate the lease or turn-in your vehicle prior to the ending date of the contract. If you do this the bank will report this as a voluntary repossession on your credit record. On an auto lease the vehicle is actually registered and titled to the bank or leasing company. Therefore you do not own the vehicle, the bank does. You get to use the vehicle and are legally responsible for the upkeep and maintenance. Please note, if you don't maintain the vehicle during the lease you will be penalized for all excessive wear-and-tear when you turn it in. Also, if you really needed to get out of your lease you can buy out of the lease if you can get the financing or you can get someone to take over your lease. Of course, they will have to qualify.

Vehicle Warranties

The average new car warranty is 36 months or 36000 miles, which ever comes first. It is not recommended that you enter into a 4, 5 or 6 year lease contract because they are not economical. Even with a four-year lease it is common for the residual to be higher than the actual value of the vehicle at the end of the lease which makes it very hard to refinance. If you are like a lot of people you can lease a new vehicle every 2 to 3 years and never have to buy an extended warranty. The only time it would be beneficial to buy an extended warranty is if you knew you were going to buy the vehicle outright at the end of the lease.

Gap Insurance

Gap Insurance is basically insurance coverage on the difference between the actual value of your vehicle and the balance you owe on the lease including the residual. This kind of protection is needed in case your vehicle is involved in an accident and is declared a total loss. Gap Insurance is important especially for people who lease vehicles. The lease on a vehicle is actually designed for the balance owed to be upside-down in relation to the actual value of the vehicle until approximately the end date of the lease term. At this time the residual should fall in line or be equal to the vehicle's actual value. Gap Insurance is good for purchase financing as well. The gap is not as large as in leasing, but you still stand the chance of having to put out a great deal of money.

Final Advice

Remember, there are two main factors you must consider when you are thinking about leasing an automobile. The first is how long you intend to keep the vehicle and the second is how many miles you travel annually. If you intend to keep the vehicle a maximum of three years and you only average 15,000 miles a year, then you should definitely consider leasing. If you want to keep the new vehicle for more than three years, you should consider purchasing.

When you lease a vehicle, you very rarely have to put any money down, so lease a new vehicle every two to three years and you won't owe any money on the old vehicle, plus you'll never have to buy an extended warranty. Also, you will have spent a ton of money less for each vehicle than if you had purchased them. If you want to keep a vehicle longer just buy it at the end of the lease.

Remember, don't let the dealer try to sell you on the basis of payments. Negotiate on the price only and when you have agreed on the price then tell them you have a trade-in. When you have agreed to your trade-in value then tell them you want to lease the new vehicle. Now you know what to do from here. Also, dealerships have a tendency to quote lease payments without the monthly tax. This makes a big difference in the monthly payments. If you don't control this you will be sadly surprised when you go into the finance manager to sign the paperwork. One more thing - when you are signing the lease contract, be sure to verify that the trade-in value you have agreed upon is actually deducted from the capitalized cost. Otherwise the dealer could wind up purchasing your trade for pennies and you would never know.

Visit My site http://www.autopurchasesecrets.com for more free information on the secrets the dealerships don't want you to know.

About the Author

Brad spent thirteen years in the Automobile business, specifically auto sales and worked for several Dealerships. He held positions from Retail Salesman up through New Car Manager and Fleet Manager. During this period Brad received an excellent education on what goes on inside the Automobile Dealerships. You can visit and communicate with Brad at his website http://www.autopurchasese

Some people like change, other people don’t.  You could argue that change is distracting and slows you down but you can also argue that without change we’d all still be living in caves.

Personally change makes me nervous but I know that it’s necessary for growth.  I’ve been working on a few things related to this site for a while now that I’m getting ready to roll out.  I’ll let you know more once change is imminent.  Until then, what are a few things you’d like to see changed about this site? Please leave your thoughts in the comments.

One more thing to cover.  I’ve been meaning to highlight some more money articles over the last few days but hadn’t gotten around to it since I’ve been working on “the changes”.  Here are some articles you might want to check out.

– The Sun talks about a new rule for online real estate brokers

– The Lazy Man reviews the Amazon Kindle: Buy or Not?

– GenX Finance looks at the cost of a family cookout

-Free Money Finance takes a look at an  Investment Portfolio Using Only Three Index Funds

-No Credit Needed gives us 10 Steps For Getting Back On Track

– Five Cent Nickel covers SmartMoney’s Best and Worst Brokers,as did Blueprint for Financial Prosperity, SmartMoney’s 2008 Best Discount Brokers

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Kris and I went grocery shopping this weekend. We stopped at Bob’s Red Mill — a local health-food store — to use some “buy one, get one free” coupons. “You can get anything you want,” Kris told me, “except hot cereal.”

“Why can’t I get hot cereal?” I asked. “I love hot cereal.”

“I know,” Kris said. “But you buy it all the time. You buy it faster than you eat it. Just last week, you bought another box of that blueberry oatmeal from Trader Joe’s. You never remember what we have at home. You need to shop with a list.”

She has a point.

A shopping list is a useful way to remind yourself what you do and do not need to purchase. But most frugality experts emphasize shopping with a list because it prevents impulse purchases. Impulse purchases wreck grocery budgets. In Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping, Paco Underhill writes:

Supermarkets are places of high impulse buying for both sexes — fully 60 to 70 percent of purchases there were unplanned, grocery industry studies have shown us.

More than half of all grocery purchases are unplanned! No wonder creating and sticking to a list can bring down grocery costs.

But that’s not the only way to save money at the supermarket. Over the past two years, I’ve published a lot of tips for saving money on your grocery bill. Some of these have been obvious — others less so. All of them can help you save at the supermarket. Here are some of the best:

Make a list — and stick to it.

This is the cardinal rule of shopping. The list represents your grocery needs: the staples you?re out of, and the food you need for upcoming meals. When you stray from the list, you?re buying on impulse, and that?s how shopping trips get out of control. Sure, a magazine only costs $5, but if you spend an extra $5 every time you make a trip to the supermarket, you waste a lot of money.

Compare unit pricing.

The biggest package isn?t always the most cost-effective. Stores know that consumers want to buy in bulk, and so they mix it up: sometimes the bulk item is cheaper, sometimes it?s more expensive. The only way you can be sure is to take a calculator. Our grocery store posts unit pricing for most items, which makes comparisons easy.

Ditch the basket or cart.

If you’re dashing into the supermarket to pick up milk and bread, don’t use a basket. Baskets induce people to buy more. If you’re limited to what you can carry, you’re more likely to avoid impulse purchases. Only use a basket (or shopping cart) if it’s absolutely necessary.

Don’t examine things you don’t need.

The more you interact with something, the more likely you are to buy it, says Paco Underhill in Why We Buy: “Virtually all unplanned purchases…come as a result of the shopper seeing, touching, smelling, or tasting something that promises pleasure, if not total fulfillment.” Do you know why grocery stores place those displays in the aisles? To intentionally block traffic. They want to force you to stop, if only for a moment. It only takes a few seconds of idly staring at the Chips Ahoy! to convince you to buy them. Stay focused.

Live on the edge.

Health-conscious shoppers know that the perimeter of the store is where the good stuff is. The baked goods, dairy products, fresh meats, and fruits and vegetables are generally placed along the outside edge of the supermarket, while the processed stuff can be found up and down the aisles. But shopping the edges isn’t just healthier — it’s cheaper too. Stock up on the fresh food first, then venture to the middle of the store.

Discard brand loyalties.

Be willing to experiment. You may have a favorite brand of diced tomatoes, for example, but does it really matter? Go with what’s on sale for the lowest unit price. You may find you like the less expensive product just as well. If you try a cheaper brand and are disappointed, it’s okay to return to your regular brand.

Choose generic.

Better yet, try the store brand. Generic and store brand products are cheaper than their name-brand equivalents and are usually of similar quality. But do you know why you’re reluctant to try generics? The power of marketing. Most generics have unappealing packaging. If they cost less and taste the same, who cares?

Use coupons wisely.

Coupons really can save you money. But you have to know how to use them. Clip coupons only the things you need — staple foods and ingredients — not for processed junk food. Learn to use special coupons. Once each month, one local store sends us a “$10 off a $50 purchase coupon”. We know it’s coming, so we plan our trips around it.

Make one large trip instead of several small ones.

Each time you enter the grocery store is another chance to spend. By reducing the frequency of your trips, you’re not only avoiding temptation, but you’re also saving money on overhead (time and fuel).

Buy from the bulk bins.

Some stores offer bulk bins filled with baking ingredients, cereal, and spices. When you buy in bulk, you get just the amount you need, and you pay less. Much less. (One GRS reader recently shared how he saved over $150 by buying spices in bulk.)

Check your receipt.

Make sure your prices are scanned correctly. Make sure your coupons are scanned correctly. Sale items, especially, have a tendency to be in the computer wrong, and yet few people ever challenge the price at the register. You don?t need to hold up the line: simply watch the price of each item as it?s scanned. If you suspect an error, step to the side and check the receipt as the clerk begins the next order. If there?s a problem, politely point it out. It?s your money. Ask for it.

Shop alone.

In Why We Buy, the author notes that people tend to buy more when shopping in groups than when shopping alone. “But men are especially suggestible to the entreaties of children as well as eye-catching displays.” Kris complains that we always spend more on food when we shop together. She’s right. If possible, shop alone.

Use a grocery price book.

A grocery price book is an ongoing list of the items you most commonly purchase and how much you paid for them. This list allows you to detect price cycles, spot bargains, and plan your shopping trips for maximum savings. A price book allows you to practice strike-point shopping.

Shop on a full stomach.

Studies show that folks who shop when they?re hungry buy more. This is certainly true for me: If I go to the store for milk on a Sunday morning without eating breakfast, I?m likely to come home with donuts and orange juice and Lucky Charms, too.

Walk or bike.

In our recent discussion about how to pay yourself first, Ross Williams suggested another way to reduce impulse purchases. By walking or biking to the store, you can automatically limit your spending. “It’s amazing how focused you can be when you are limited to one shopping bag full of groceries,” he writes. “Once you are very conscious of each purchase, it seems to carry over even to the small items where space isn’t really an issue.”

Any of these tips can help a savvy shopper save money at the supermarket. But when combined to create a cohesive shopping philosophy, they have the power to slash your grocery budget significantly. I’m not promising that you’ll be able to feed yourself for $15 a week, but you might be able to save enough money pay down your debt or to jump-start your savings!

Here are some related articles:

• How to save hundreds by playing the drugstore game
• The lazy man’s guide to groceries on a budget
• Grocery store vs. farmers market: Which has the cheapest produce?

Kris requested I offer some final pointers for the gentlemen. “Check with your wife before you go shopping,” she says. “Check with your wife before you put anything into the cart. And remember: Just because you like a food doesn’t mean you need to buy it every time you go shopping.”

Bulk food photo by mattieb.

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Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• Use a Grocery Price Book to Slash Your Food Spending
• The Grocery Game
• How to Spend Less - Lessons From ‘Why We Buy’
• Daily Links: Money Saving Tips Edition
• Price vs. Ethics: Is the Best Price the Best Choice?

(This is a guest post written by ABCs of Investing, a brand new site for novice investors which offers two short and simple investing posts per week.  Feel free to subscribe to the feed.)

The majority of investors use a financial advisor or broker to help with their investing planning.  There is nothing wrong with getting some help with investing since it is a fairly intimidating subject.  Most people just don’t have the time or the interest to read investment books and become knowledgeable enough to be able to handle all of their own investments.  Do-it-yourself investors forget how much time they have put into learning about finances and think that investing is easier than it really is.

The great thing about investing is you don’t have to choose between being an expert DIYer or a clueless investor who needs an advisor.  You can hire professional help AND know what you are doing at the same time!

A few years ago I bought a basic electrical book.  It showed how to do electrical repair jobs and even how to plan various circuits in a house.  One of the things that I found most interesting about the book was in the introduction; it said that learning the basics of your electrical system is useful whether you do the work yourself or hire someone else.  The point was that even if you end up hiring a contractor to complete your electrical work, any knowledge you have about the electrical system in your house and how it works will assist you greatly.  The same logic applies to investing: the more investment knowledge you have when dealing with an advisor, the better off you will be.  It is worthwhile to spend a bit of time learning about investing.

There are number of areas where some investing knowledge will help if you have an advisor:

• It won’t be as easy for the advisor to take advantage of you.  Let’s face it: some financial advisors, like real estate agents, make money on commission, and unscrupulous ones can rob you blind if you let them.  Knowledge about proper investments and for that matter knowledge about how advisors make their money will help you a lot.
• You’ll have more productive advisor/client meetings.  Usually when a client visits or talks with their advisor, the advisor is telling them what to buy.  If you can spend some time before meetings looking over your portfolio then you can drive the meeting agenda and make sure that your questions get answered.
• You’ll know better what you want from your advisor.  A lot of investors just hand over the financial reins to their advisor and just do whatever they are told.  If you have some investment knowledge then you will be in a lot better shape to determine what you want from the advisor, communicate your desires to them and make sure that they are the right advisor for you.

The single best way to learn about investing is to read.  Read, read and then read some more.  Books, blogs, websites, newspapers are all sources of information.  Talking with friends, relatives, co-workers can also be helpful.  But beware, all the “good” ways to learn about investing can unfortunately also be “bad” ways to learn about investing.  The best way to protect yourself is to read as much as you can and eventually you will be able to figure out where the good information sources are.

Knowledge is power!  Make sure you have as much as possible when dealing with your advisor.  Even a little bit of knowledge is a lot better than none at all.

(Photo credit: net efekt)

Cost Segregation

One of the great advantages of commercial property investing is the tax benefits. The IRS has a program that allows the owners of apartment buildings or any other commercial property to increase the level of accelerated depreciation allowed in a tax year.

The tax savings may go back to property acquired after 1986, and they apply to new or future construction. They also extend to existing buildings under renovation, expansion and leasehold improvements, as well as to property about to be acquired. It can also be used for financial accounting, insurance and property tax purposes. The primary goal of a cost segregation study is to identify all construction-related costs that qualify for accelerated income tax depreciation. Cost segregation is not a tax shelter and it is not tax evasion.

Ask Yourself These Questions To Determine if You and Your Property Qualify:

Do you own a commercial property valued at $500,000 or more?

Do you pay federal income taxes?

Do you operate a corporation or entity that is for-profit?

Are you planning to the hold the property for more than one year?

To Obtain the Benefits of Cost Segregation You Must Get a Study

Your cost segregation study will analyze the taxes and costs incurred to buy, construct or renovate any kind of commercial real estate. You will need to procure the services of an expert or CPA to conduct the study. The CPA will dissect the costs to determine the accelerated income tax schedules. In order to meet the minimum qualifications of a cost segregation study, property owners must be taxpayers or intend to pay taxes. The cost of a study can range between $10,000 and $100.000.00 depending on the size and complexity of the project.

Advantages of Cost Segregation

• Considerable return on investments property that do not need to be insured.
• Increased tax deductions for depreciation and reduces taxable income.
• Opportunity to correct misclassified assets and claim “catch-up” tax deductions.
• Ability to achieve faster building and acquisition cost write offs.
• Reduction in insurance costs by identifying the components of the property that do not need to be insured.
• Determine personal property versus real property for write off versus capitalization prior to construction. This allows you to write off these items opposed to capitalizing the assets. This can provide you with huge tax benefits.
• Defers taxes on capital gain amounts until the property is sold.
• Reduces real estate property taxes.
• Reduces federal income tax and increases depreciation.

Advertisement: Real Estate Investing Forums Discuss real estate, network, or learn about investing on our forums!

This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Apartment Building Cost Segregation Analysis

June was a difficult month for me. I was busy in Real Life, distracted by home remodeling and by physical fitness. Things are settling, which will allow me to spend more time on the site. On top of that, I now have actual help around here!

• My wife, Kris, is processing the backlog of e-mail.
• My friend, Winston, who is one of the inspirations behind GRS, is doing research and handling publicity.
• Another friend, Lisa, will help copy-edit guest posts. (You may remember Lisa from “Saving with Albert” and other guest posts.)
• Meanwhile, JerichoHill continues to keep an eye on the discussion forums.

Thanks to everyone who is lending a hand. I appreciate it. And thank you for your comments, links, and tips. The readers are the heart of Get Rich Slowly. You keep the site a vibrant place for exchanging money-saving (and money-making) ideas.

Here’s a brief overview of some of June’s top stories on the blog:

• June 3rd: How to take a mini-retirement: Tips and tricks from Timothy Ferriss
• June 9th: Guarding against the invasion of Stuff
• June 11th: The new reader’s guide to Get Rich Slowly
• June 15th: Financial advice from my father (when I was nineteen)
• June 16th: Personal finance made easy: Pay yourself first
• June 20th: Cheap vacation: Be a tourist in your own hometown
• June 23rd: Subscribe to Craigslist search results to grab great deals
• June 26th: The non-conformists’ guide to personal finance (a guest post from Chris Guillebeau)

Best of the Forums
The Get Rich Slowly discussion forums were active again this month, spawning several interesting conversations:

• Living debt free…is it really possible? this is a great thread
• Going (mostly) car-less
• Unusual ways to save money
• Debt snowball vs. emergency fund
• How do you work your clothing budget?

The forums are a great place to chat with your fellow readers. Have questions about emergency funds? Ask! Want to chat about cheap vacations? This is the place to do it. (Since opening a year ago, the forums have 1800 registered users and over 21,500 posts.)

Subscribe!
You may subscribe to Get Rich Slowly via any of the following methods:

This weblog is a success because of you and your support. As always, I welcome reader contributions, either as ideas for stories, or as guest entries. If you have any comments or requests to improve this site, please feel free to pass them on.

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Related Articles at Get Rich Slowly:

• The Best of GRS: June 2007 Edition
• The GRS Garden Project: June Update
• Daily Links: 100 Pushups Edition
• Press
• Daily Links: Technical Difficulties Edition

Since reading some comments on my last post, I had been thinking about what this whole deal with “personal finance” is about; is it about making the most amount of money? or is it about saving the most amount of money? or is it about spending the least amount of money? or is it about reducing stress due to money matters? or is it about this obscure concept called “financial freedom”?

The more I think about it, the less specific I get about possible “correct” answers to that question. In fact, looking back at my life, it seems that at different times, a different answer suited me depending on my financial and personal situation at that time.

What came out of this thought process was the realization that personal finance is not just about “maximizing money” - as I used to think earlier - and like most people probably think about it.

It’s not about maximizing. It’s about optimizing.

Given a financial situation, personal finance is about making the best of that situation. Sometimes it means trying to make as much money as you can, and at other times it means trying to make your money work to make you more efficient by reducing your stress, and at some other times it means that you save every penny to make sure that your children don’t inherit your burden of debt.

There is nothing wrong in trying to “maximize money”, but it is important to realize that, depending on your personal situation, there are costs (in terms of stress and time) associated with trying to do that.

Examples are numerous (but vague and difficult to explain) in this area, but a simple one would be to think of a job in which you are paid overtime. Every extra hour you work might mean that you will become richer than the previous hour, but it does not mean that you would be stress-free - or that you would be able to devote enough time to your family. If you overdo it, it wouldn’t be too hard to make yourself and your family feel miserable even with the extra money you earn.

Working your ass off for a few extra bucks might be a good idea when you are a bachelor with hardly any cares in the world, but if you are a family man, then you might be better off by working a little less in lieu of spending a little more time with your family. Now, just because you gave up that little extra money to spend time with your family or to reduce your stress, it does not mean that you are careless or frivolous with your personal finances. In other words, just because you chase every penny, it does not mean that you are an epitome of financially astute people.

In general, for the sake of the betterment of the whole universe and your own self, try optimizing your money instead of maximizing it. It also helps to reevaluate our understanding of “personal finance” in perspective of our changing personal situation and revise our money-chasing efforts accordingly.

Duh!

By all accounts it seems the banking lobby will get everything they’ve been ask for from Congress over the past decade and in do so may legislate mortgage brokers out of existence.

A little history lesson is in order to understand all the political and media spin designed to sway their and public opinion away from mortgage brokers the banking industry orchestrated for the last 10 plus years.

During the 70’s and early 80’s, banks dominated originations carving out a whopping 80% of the retail loan applications. Brokers quickly picked up the slack and by the early 90’s the numbers reversed. The market, especially real estate investors, liked the idea of a personal mortgage broker who understood their goals scouring the landscape for the best products and rates.

Banks have never been know for the best customer service or pricing and the public punished them by fleeing to the broker community. During this time brokers enjoyed about 75% of all originations leaving the crumbs for the banks.

They didn’t take that lying down. The quickly got their lobbyists working on legislation that passed in 1999 to poison the market against broker by demanding brokers show their “yield spread premium” income while the banks were allowed to hide their own. The thought was the public upon seeing this often times enormous “profit” that was heretofore hidden would put brokers in a bad light with consumers and they would come running back to the banks.

It didn’t happen.

As it turns out consumer either didn’t know or didn’t care. Some critics ( myself included) would say the brokers decided one “dirty trick” deserved another and devised ways of obfuscating the YSP. After all banks were getting away with setting up an un-level playing field in the first place so they could claim they were just “evening the score”.

Undaunted in their pursuit of the killing off their competition, many believe the banks decided upon a “scorched earth” plan to rid themselves of retail mortgage competition once and for all.

The Plan was one they pulled from the S&L playbook a decade earlier. Give the mortgage brokers just enough rope to hang themselves just like the Savings and Loans did.

Remember the Savings and Loan crisis of the late 80’s?

Banks wanted the S&L’s out of the way back then too. When a few greedy large S&L’s decided they wanted “deregulation” so they could make commercial loans it was the banking lobby who helped them get it.

At the time it seemed like “strange bedfellows”, but it only took a few years to see the banking industry genius behind their “assistance. They knew the S&L’s were unprepared to thwart their own greed and would create a “banking and real estate crash” lawmakers and the public would rightfully lay at their doorstep.

All the banks had to do this time around was find an equally stupid idea, attach a lot of money to it, and let the brokers commit a little “banker-assisted” suicide.

Enter the subprime loan.

Bankers priced them, marketed them, and feed them to a stupid, greedy bunch who cobbled them down with out the knowledge they’d just been had.

It worked.

Lawmakers and the public are clearly laying the current real estate and banking debacle at the doorstep of mortgage brokers. Legislation will pass making mortgage brokers all but extinct.

It worked so well that the banks may have succeeded in taking down not only the brokers but the mechanism that put them in business in the first place…the GSEs…Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac.

On Friday there were cries to bailout the GSEs since they too got caught in the bankers web of greed. The infection of subprime losses it seems put both GSEs on tilt. With them out of the way, the broker have no hope of staging a comeback since it’s Fannie and Freddie’s pathway to the money markets that give brokers something to sell.

The banker planted subprime virus not only killed brokers and the GSEs, but will likely kill the real estate industry and economy for the next few years too.

But when the dust settles a few years from now, every one will go to a bank to get a mortgage because that is all that is left.

Mission Accomplished!

If investors thought getting a loan was hard before, just wait. You ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

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This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Are Mortgage Brokers An Endangered Species?

Back in 2003, a friend said to me, "isn't it sad that we all know who Donald Rumsfeld is?"

"Bizarre," I thought.  Why is it sad that we know who the Secretary of Defense is?

Well, the point was that my group of friends, while intelligent and educated, did not follow most of politics closely.  So, the fact that we all knew Donald Rumsfeld was seen as a sad state of the political environment.

Case in point... 

Quick, name the three men who served as Secretary of Defense under Clinton!

Very few of you were able to rattle them off.

And now Hank Paulson is a household name.  Quick, name the three Secretaries of Treasury under Clinton!

In the American Revolutionary War Colonel William Prescott admonished his troops not to fire till they saw the whites of the enemies’ eyes. Bottom feeders in this tanking real estate market are trying to show the same discipline, but it’s tough. As early as mid 2007 we were reading all sorts of stories about vultures swooping into overheated markets like Miami and Las Vegas to gobble up properties that had tanked in value. Funny – we don’t really see too many stories about what happened next.

But we know what happened next – they continued to tumble, and the bottom feeders who jumped in too early took a beating.

Today Case Shiller reported a 15.8% drop in their housing price index. This isn’t really news, actually – it’s the twenty second consecutive month that the index is down. And if I were a betting man I’d count on it being down next month too.

Foreclosures are hammering the market as banks unload their inventory of REO’s, pushing down the averages. There are some indications that Congress and the Fed are ready to step in – witness this week’s housing bill. This will reassure Wall Street, but it remains to be seen if the positive impact that this has on credit liquidity is neutralized by banks reevaluating the risk of the government unilaterally resetting the terms of the loans that they make.

I’ve remarked in earlier posts that there is a difference between investing and speculating – and that either one may be ok for you, but the danger is when you think that you’re doing one but you’re actually doing the other. “Investors” out there who are trying to catch the bounce aren’t investors; they’re speculators. In my view it’s more important than ever for investors to evaluate the risks, take a sober look at a potential cashflow that an investment will produce, and ask themselves what kind of return their investment will yield if they’re forced to hold for a few years.

Okay I admit it? I used to be an active ?chatter? in a local chat room on Yahoo. It was a room where many people from the Dallas area met up to?Chat. Many of us had met outside of the cyber room at local restaurants, clubs and the like.

Yahoo had recently shut down a lot of the member created chat rooms in the wake of all the negativity and sponsor lawsuits. Lets face it?The public opinion of chat rooms was not good. I was a virtual unknown person to most chatters because I stayed away from the ?in person? socials but, that all changed one morning. Here is what happened:

A room regular was talking on ?voice? and venting about his house early one morning and I was listening a few steps away making my breakfast. This is what ?Monte? said, ?I got this letter from some attorney who says he is going to sell my house! How does he think he can do that? He doesn?t own MY house so, how can he sell MY house?? My head spun around so fast that I almost gave myself whiplash. I ran to the computer and grabbed the microphone to speak in the room and here is what was said?

Jim: Monte, what is the name of the law firm that sent you that letter?
Monte: Uhmmm, it says ummm.. Barnett, Burke & Associates.
Jim: Would that be BARRETT Burke?
Monte: Yeah, that?s it.
Jim: Monte, email me your number. I need to talk to you NOW.
(That law firm processes nearly 40% of all foreclosures in the state of Texas)

Within a few minutes I was on the phone with him and I told him that I was a local foreclosure expert and taught classes at Foreclosure Listing Service in Addison. I told him I needed to meet with him and his wife right away because, the letter he got was his notice that his house was in foreclosure and he had less than three weeks left before it would go to the auction. He was shocked and claimed he had no idea (I didn?t know how he could be shocked after missing nine payments). Two hours later I was at his house and explained all about the foreclosure process to him and his wife and what options he may have to save his house.

I remember how bad I felt while explaining the situation because his wife just sat there, staring at me with her eyes wide open, not able to say a word. She had no idea the mortgage was past due at all. She had not seen any letters from the lender or taken any call from them. Monte never told her early on and the situation only got worse as the missed payments added up.

After going over all of the possible solutions, I decided that bankruptcy was likely the best option for them and they agreed. I made a call to Hariett Langston, a friend of mine who is a bankruptcy lawyer in Dallas. Monte and his wife were overwhelmed with the situation and asked if I would go with them when they met with the attorney and I told them I would.

We met with Hariett that same week and everything appeared to be set to stop the foreclosure. All Monte needed to do was pay the bankruptcy filing fee.

A week before the foreclosure sale I went to their house and was a bit surprised to learn that he had not paid the filing fee. I asked him when he was going to file and he just shook his head and said he didn?t know. I remember pausing for a few seconds and it dawned on me why he had not filed. I said, ?Monte? You don?t have the money to file, do you?? In a very humble manner, he looked down at the floor and shook his head. ($500 was the amount he needed to get the bankruptcy filed)

As I drove home I thought to myself that it would be simple if I just wrote a check for the $500 but, I thought that he really needed to pay something so important himself. I got an idea about that time and sent an email to one of the chat room regulars who organized the chat room socials. I recall stating in that email that online chat rooms have such a negative public image and went on to tell her about Monte, his situation and I asked her if she could set up a fund raising get together. It would be our way of proving that normal, everyday people go to chat rooms and this was a chance to show at least one chat room could do something good. I told her that he only needed $500 and all it would take is $5 here, $10 there and a $20 from a few? $500 could be raised.

She arranged to have a Dallas chat fundraiser social for that coming Saturday night. I called Monte and told him about the fundraiser. He asked me to not do it (his pride was the obstacle) but, I told him that we were going to do it anyway and it would be nice if he attended. He later told me he was so choked up that he couldn?t say anything but, he did finally say he would attend.

I expected a handful of people to show up for the fundraiser but, I was wrong. Much to my surprise? At least 50 to 60 regulars from that chat room showed up and contributed. At the end of the night, ordinary people from a Yahoo chat room donated more than $700 to help save someone from losing their house.

The next day I gave the proceeds to Monte & his wife and they quickly paid the attorney the fee to file their bankruptcy and their house?No?Their ?home? was saved.

The story got another interesting twist a few days later. I got a call from a reporter who wrote for a well known local media outlet. They had heard about the fundraiser and thought it was a great community effort story that should be told and asked if I wanted them to write about it.

It took only a few seconds for me to process my answer but, I remember thinking that such publicity would be great for business and my classes would see a boost in attendance. Then I thought about the possibility of other homeowners that would read the story and what would my answer be to them if they contacted me and asked me to do a fundraiser for them as well?

I told the reporter that as wild as the story was, I never expected things to unfold as they did. I told them that I had to pass on their offer because, I had done it to help someone and wouldn?t feel right about profiting off of someone else?s stressful and humbling foreclosure experience. They understood and that was the end of it.

I have to admit . . . Of all the positive experiences I have had in real estate, helping Monte might rank as number one. What stands out in my mind was the fact that so many people pitched in to help save a family from losing their home and they did it for someone most had never met or only knew of by screen name?That?s what made it so great.

This happened in 2005 and two days ago I got a phone call from Monte. He just wanted to give me an update and I was happy to hear they still have their home.

During the call I told him about the reporter. He was surprised I hadn?t told him and more surprised that I turned them down. At the end of the call, Monte told me that three years was long enough and he encouraged me to tell the story of how a bunch of chatters from a Yahoo chat room, came together and did something good.

Thanks Monte.

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This Post is from the BiggerPockets Real Estate Blog. Copyright © 2008 BiggerPockets, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Online Chat Room Helps Save Foreclosure Homeowner